OVERVIEW

If you’re looking for a challenging hike that winds through ancient pine forests, crosses volcanic summits, and features spectacular vistas of rugged coastlines, look no further than the Ruta de Los Volcanes trek on the island of La Palma, in the Canary Islands.

La Palma, commonly referred to as “La Isla Bonita”, is a lush subtropical paradise a few hundred miles off the coast of northwest Africa. It’s widely considered the most beautiful of the Canary Islands due to its dense forests, pristine black sand beaches, volcanic landscapes, and vibrant coastal villages.

Ruta de Los Volcanes is the marquee hiking trail on La Palma and attracts thrill seekers and nature enthusiasts from all over the world. With this guide, you’ll learn how to prepare for this hike while discovering why Ruta de Los Volcanes is such a breathtaking experience.  

STATISTICS

Distance: 10.6 miles.

Elevation Gain: 2,240 feet.

Duration: 5-7 hours.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Conditions: Excellent. The trail is well maintained and sign posted. However, the majority of the trail is composed of volcanic sand, which can be challenging terrain in which to hike.

Where: On the island of La Palma, in the Canary Islands archipelago. The northern trailhead is found at Refugio El Pilar while the southern trailhead is located at Los Canarios. The trail can be hiked in either direction but is generally done from north to south.

LOGISTICS

Where to Stay

La Palma is a relatively small island, measuring “only” 274 square miles. Regardless of where you stay on the island, you’ll be able to access the northern trailhead in an hour or less. 

Santa Cruz de La Palma is the island’s capital and largest city. You’ll find an abundance of lodging accommodations, restaurants, and popular attractions there. You can reach the northern trailhead at Refugio El Pilar in about 30 minutes from Santa Cruz de La Palma.

Just north of Santa Cruz de La Palma is San Andrés y Sauces, a picturesque mountain town near Playa de Nogales and Charco Azul. On the western coastline of La Palma is the charming coastal village of Puerto de Tazacorte, renowned for its black sand beach and colorful buildings. 

Southern La Palma has fewer towns and more barren terrain, but there are a few towns in the Fuencaliente municipality that would be suitable, including Los Canarios. Nearby are the popular sights of Volcán de San Antonio and Salinas de Fuencaliente.

Getting There

Ruta de Los Volcanes is a nearly 11 mile point-to-point hike in remote areas of La Palma. As a result, you’ll need to consider transportation options to and from the trail.

Although the trail can be hiked in both directions, it’s far easier going from north to south. That requires getting to the trailhead at Refugio El Pilar, which is located in the center of the island between the Cumbre Nueva and Cumbre Vieja mountain ranges.

If you park a car at the trailhead, you’ll need to arrange a ride at the end of the hike (in Los Canarios) back to Refugio El Pilar. If your hiking group has two cars, you could leave one in Los Canarios before starting the hike. Alternatively you could arrange a taxi from Los Canarios to bring you back to your car at Refugio El Pilar.

We were staying in the outskirts of Santa Cruz de La Palma and arranged a taxi to take us from our accommodations to the trailhead at Refugio del Pilar. Our friends met us in Los Canarios after completion of the hike and gave us a lift back to Santa Cruz de La Palma.

Unfortunately, there are no bus routes that regularly and reliably go to Refugio El Pilar. 

What to Bring

After leaving Refugio El Pilar, there won’t be any facilities or fresh water sources until reaching Los Canarios. The only exception might be the primitive facilities at Fuente de Los Roques, but those are only located a mile or so from the end of the trail. As a result, make sure to bring at least 3 liters of water as it’ll need to last you all day.

The initial and final stages of the trail run through a dense pine forest, providing welcomed protection from the sun. The middle portion of the trail, however, is at significant elevation and completely exposed to the elements. You’ll want to have good sun protection, including a wide brimmed hat and sunscreen.

Hiking poles are not really needed, but might be helpful for some people. However, make sure to have a sturdy pair of hiking boots as the uneven and sandy terrain can make the trail rather precarious. We found ourselves emptying the sand and stones from our shoes every mile or two.

We were fortunate to have hiked Ruta de Los Volcanes in near perfect weather. The morning was crisp and cool, requiring a light jacket. By lunchtime the temperature had climbed and we were hiking in the sun. A T-shirt or thin sun shirt was perfect in this situation. 

We have previously had miserable experiences when hiking during unexpected rain or snow. This taught us to always have a raincoat to protect against these harsh conditions, even when the forecast indicates clear skies.

HIKING RUTA DE LOS VOLCANES

Overview of the Trail

The Ruta de Los Volcanes Trail runs from the center of La Palma at Refugio El Pilar to the southern portion of the island along the high ridge of Cumbre Vieja. The trail is well-maintained and marked, and you’ll likely be joined by several other hikers.

You’ll ascend through a pine forest and then cross a series of volcanic summits. The trail eventually descends back through the forest to the Fuencaliente municipality and ends in the town of Los Canarios. Along the way you’ll be treated to spectacular panoramas and views of the volcanic landscape, gaining some insight into the island’s geological history.

Although the trail can be modified in several different ways, this version entails a 11 mile point to point hike with about 2,200 feet of elevation gain that requires about 6-8 hours for completion. 

Pine Forest

I recommend starting the hike early to avoid crowds. We arrived at Refugio del Pilar at about 9 AM. There’s a parking lot to the side of the road if you plan to drive up to the trailhead. You’ll walk by the sleepy mountain hut and follow the signs for the GR 131 footpath.

The trail gently ascends through the pine forest and brings you along the western slopes of Pico Birigoyo and Montaña la Barquita, both rising to about 5,900 feet. You’ll be walking across a mixture of volcanic sands and dead pine needles. Most of this portion is shaded, particularly in the morning, and although a steady ascent, it’s not overly demanding.

Eventually you’ll ascend above the treeline and begin hiking across a volcanic landscape that is dotted with small shrubs. Over your right shoulder, take note of the southern wall of Caldera de Taburiente, Aridane Valley, and La Palma’s beautiful western coastline.

Mirador del Hoyo Negro and Mirador Duraznero

The path continues a gentle ascent until it reaches Mirador del Hoyo Negro, literally translated to “Black Hole Viewpoint”. The name is very fitting as the cliffside abruptly drops down to a deep ravine with pine trees scattered throughout the abyss below.

Continue down the path, cross a short wooden bridge, and proceed through more lava fields to one of the most iconic viewpoints of the hike…Mirador de Duraznero. From this vantage point you can see the landscape sloping down to the ocean on both sides of Volcán El Duraznero.

Walk along the ridgeline and the western slope of Volcán El Duraznero and take note of the magnificent lava fields of Lavas La Malforada to your left. The trail soon splits into two parallel paths. One of them descends slightly and brings you through the trees while a parallel route runs higher along the side of Volcán El Duraznero and is considerably more exposed. 

They’re essentially the same length and difficulty and reconnect after less than half a mile. If visibility is good you should be able to see La Gomera, El Hierro, and Tenerife, recognizable by the towering peak of Mount Teide. 

Mount Deseada and Volcán de Martín

Shortly after the paths reconnect you’ll reach the highest elevation of the hike and the next viewpoint…Mount Deseada. Eat lunch here while you take in the spectacular vistas and views of deep gorges, desolate landscapes, and the island’s vast coastline.

From this point on the Ruta de Los Volcanes Trail will descend for the remainder of its route. You’ll pass Montaña de los Bermejales and later Montaña de la Manteca on your left. Soon you will reach the final viewpoint, Mirador Volcán de Martín. There’s a short offshout trail that detours up Volcán de Martin for additional elevation

Descent to Los Canarios

The path continues its descent, eventually bringing you below the tree line and back into the pine forest. On the left is a small rest area, Fuente de los Roques, that provides basic facilities such as benches, restrooms, a playground, and fresh drinking water.

The remainder of the hike is rather monotonous as it continues through the dense forest. But that will be a welcomed reprieve after hiking across miles of exposed volcanic terrain. 

The trail officially terminates at Los Canarios (although there is the option to continue the descent to Salinas de Fuencaliente). You’ll find a few restaurant options in Los Canarios and can typically arrange a taxi to bring you back to your accommodations or the trailhead at El Pilar, although I’d recommend confirming this possibility beforehand.

FINAL IMPRESSIONS

Hiking the Ruta de Los Volcanes Trail in La Palma was a unique and extraordinary experience. We previously had the opportunity to hike through lava fields and around the base of volcanoes on Lanzarote, but to trek across a series of volcanic summits was truly remarkable.

The hike is somewhat demanding and does require some preparation. But with those challenges comes the reward of near constant views of otherworldly volcanic landscapes and the breathtaking scenery that makes La Palma so special.