OVERVIEW

If you’re looking for a holiday destination with stunning beaches, charming seaside villages, and a rich cultural heritage, look no further than southern Italy’s Amalfi Coast.

The 34-mile long stretch of pristine coastline is one of the most sought after holiday destinations in the world. Travelers from all over come to indulge in traditional Mediterranean cuisine while exploring the pastel colored buildings of Positano and the historic villas of Ravello.

We spent three wonderful days in the Amalfi Coast in March, staying in a mountainside villa right above Positano. Our days were spent hiking along the rugged cliffside, exploring the quaint towns, and stuffing our bellies with delicious seafood, gelato, and limoncello.

From honeymooners and digital nomads to large families with many kids, everyone will love a trip to this fantastic destination.

BACKGROUND AND LAYOUT

The history of the Amalfi Coast can be traced back thousands of years, to when the Romans first conquered and inhabited the region. During the middle ages, the peninsula flourished as a strategic harbor and much of the iconic Moorish-styled villas and grand cathedrals were built during those years.

During the 19th century, the Amalfi Coast attracted artists and intellectuals due to its remarkable beauty, romantic atmosphere, and appealing climate. The construction of luxurious hotels, colorful villas, and exquisite restaurants modernized the region and transformed it into a popular European tourist destination.

The Amalfi Coast is located in the Campania region of southern Italy, along the Tyrrhenian Sea. It stretches for over 30 miles along the southern shores of the Sorrentine Peninsula. The landscape is characterized by towering cliffs and terraced gardens running along the pristine, azure waters of the Mediterranean Sea.

The city of Sorrento marks the western end of the Amalfi Coast while the eastern end terminates in Salerno. Several charming towns are dotted throughout the peninsula. Some are found at high elevations and built on the limestone cliffs while others line the rugged shoreline.

WHERE TO STAY

A variety of accommodations exist throughout the Sorrentine Peninsula, ranging from lavish 5-star resorts to traditional family-owned villas. In general, you’ll find more budget friendly options in the cities of Sorrento and Salerno, which lie on either end of the Amalfi Coast. 

It’s commonly said that there are 13 villages within the Amalfi Coast itself. You’ll find an assortment of hotels, rental properties, and villas in all of them. Although they offer beautiful views and numerous attractions, you should expect higher prices and large crowds throughout your stay.

The first thing you’ll need to decide is whether you’d rather stay inside or outside of the Amalfi Coast. I’ll cover some of the popular locations for each of these options below.

Sorrento 

Sorrento is a relatively large city located on the northern side of the Sorrentine Peninsula. It’s only a 90 minute drive from Naples and can be reached quickly by public transportation such as bus, train, or even ferry.

The city is considered the gateway into the Amalfi Coast and provides a convenient location for day trips. From Sorrento you can tour the coastal towns, the ruins of Pompeii, or the island paradise of Capri. Prices are affordable and the town itself has a variety of accommodations, restaurants, and attractions.

Salerno

Salerno is on the opposite side of the Amalfi Coast from Sorrento. It’s a large city and operates as the region’s primary transportation hub. It can also be reached easily from Naples, Rome, and other major cities via bus, train, or boat.

Despite its size, Salerno has a relaxing atmosphere and is free of much of the congestion that exists in other large Italian cities. It’s managed to retain its cultural heritage and hospitality while offering numerous nearby attractions. 

Some of the popular sites in Salerno include the extravagant Salerno Cathedral, medieval fortress of Castello di Arechi, and nearby Greek ruins of Paestum.

Positano

Positano is the quintessential Amalfi Coast town and easily recognizable as it’s often featured on postcards of the region. The village is renowned for its picturesque pebble beach, maze of narrow cobblestone alleyways, and colorful pastel villas perched on the cliffside.

Although Positano is incredibly beautiful, there are certainly downsides to staying here. The town is very busy, has limited parking, and accommodations will be far more expensive than locations outside of the Amalfi Coast.

Amalfi Town

The namesake town of the region, Amalfi Town, is similar to Positano in its beautiful architecture, sprawling harbor, and vibrant atmosphere. Unfortunately, it’s also subject to the hordes of tourists, limited parking, traffic jams, and inflated costs.

There were a few must-see sights in Amalfi Town, such as the Duomo di Amalfi and the Piazza del Duomo. But more so than other towns we had visited along the coast, we came away feeling as though the town had lost much of its original charm. 

It seemed every building along the main thoroughfare was selling either generic souvenirs or overpriced gelato. The town’s medieval Romanesque architecture was remarkable, but overall we felt Amalfi Town was one big tourist trap and we couldn’t wait to leave.

Ravello

Ravello on the other hand was a gorgeous mountain town that we absolutely adored. It’s situated high upon the limestone cliffs and didn’t feel nearly as crowded or touristy as the coastal towns we had visited. 

Ravello had a more authentic and artistic vibe while providing panoramic views of the shoreline below. The town boasts a lively plaza and is home to two amazing villas with their extravagant gardens. 

The disadvantage of staying in Ravello is its somewhat remote location. It’s not on the water, so you’ll need to make use of land transportation such as buses, taxis, or your own car in order to get to the town. 

GETTING AROUND

There’s no easy way to put it, getting around the Amalfi Coast is often complicated, hectic, and very stressful. That being said, there are several ways to navigate the coast, so you can choose whichever method suits your location and personal situation.

Personal Car

When we visited the Amalfi Coast during March, we were coming from the airport in Naples. We decided to rent a car as it would eliminate the need to take a train or bus to the region and would provide us with added flexibility during our visit.

We were staying at an AirB&B in Montepertuso, on the mountainside just above Positano. The villa was equipped with a small gated parking lot for us to keep the car. 

Although the roads were narrow, we didn’t find driving too intimidating and it was the most efficient way for us to move about the Amalfi Coast. We were able to easily find parking in the coastal towns of Amalfi and Ravelo without difficulty and for a reasonable price.

However, had we been traveling in the peak summer months, our experience with driving and parking our own car likely would have been very different. Parking rates skyrocket over the summer and the roads are extremely congested with buses and thousands of other cars. 

There’s also a relatively new alternating license plate system that regulates driving through the Amalfi Coast. This will further limit your availability to drive throughout the area.

Taxi or Private Driver

Most of the towns along the Amalfi Coast have taxis readily available. You could also hire a private driver if you don’t feel comfortable driving yet want an efficient mode of transportation.

The downside with both of these options is of course price. When we hiked Path of the Gods, we had a taxi take us from Montepertuso to Bomerano, about an hour away. This cost €130 but saved us 2 hours of travel time as we otherwise would have had to take a series of buses to reach that remote location.

Ferry

The best way to get around the Amalfi Coast during the summer is by using the ferries. There are a few different ferry companies servicing the region and you can find their schedules online. The best way to book a trip is by using a booking platform such as Ferry Hopper.

The ferries are reasonably priced and provide fantastic views of the Amalfi Coast and its towns from the sea. They’re efficient, comfortable, and avoid the congestion and hassle of driving along the coast.

The disadvantage of ferries is that they run seasonally. So during the winter months, you’ll need an alternative mode of transportation. In addition, ferries can only reach the towns along the coast. So to get to the mountain towns such as Ravello, you’ll need to incorporate the use of taxis or buses.

Bus

Using the extensive bus system is the most economical way of getting around the Amalfi Coast. The downside, however, is that during the summer months the lines for the buses are very long, they’re packed with other tourists and rarely on time, and you’ll still have to deal with traffic jams and delays. 

WHEN TO VISIT

The summer months, particularly July and August, are the busiest months along the Amalfi Coast. You can expect large crowds, expensive accommodations, congested roadways, limited parking, and extreme heat. The Italian holiday of Ferragosto is on August 15 and marks the busiest week of the year.

We traveled to the area in late March and thought this was an excellent time to visit. The weather was perfect, with lots of sun and a high temperature ranged from 65-75°F. The roads had minimal traffic, making driving safe and easy. There was also ample parking, even in Positano and Amalfi Town.

We still came across plenty of tourists, but we didn’t find them overwhelming. Buses were running normally and the wait times were minimal. The ferries had also just resumed their service a few days before we arrived. 

Unfortunately, from late October through mid April, the sea is likely too chilly for comfortable swimming. In addition, some of the beach clubs, resorts, and even restaurants have seasonal closings during the offseason months.

April through late May and early September through late October are likely the sweet spots for visiting the Amalfi Coast. Temperatures will be mild with little precipitation, crowds will be manageable, swimming will be possible, and most businesses will be open.

HOW LONG TO SPEND

We combined our visit to the Amalfi Coast with a five day trip to Malta over Oliver and Maddie’s spring break. As a result, we only had 3 days in the Amalfi Coast, which is the minimum amount of time I’d recommend spending in the region. 

With a three day itinerary you could tour several of the iconic towns on the first day, hike the iconic Path of the Gods trail on the second, and visit the neighboring island of Capri on the final day.

4-5 days is the optimal amount of time to spend visiting the Amalfi Coast. You’ll be able to visit many of the scenic villages, sample a variety of Campanian restaurants, take some day trips to nearby islands or the ruins of Pompeii, and enjoy some time on the beach.

BEST THINGS TO DO

Explore the Coastal Villages

No trip to the Amalfi Coast would be complete without exploring the ancient villages scattered throughout the area. Most of these historic towns are found along the coastline, but a few are nestled high up on the mountainsides.

The colorful buildings and stunning architecture of these villages will transport you back in time. Stroll along the winding cobblestone alleys and take note of the historic cathedrals, chic boutiques, artisanal shops, pebble beaches, and lively atmospheres.

Each town has its own unique personality and charm. Positano and Amalfi Town draw the most tourists, but our favorites were the quaint fishing village of Atrani and the elegant mountain town of Ravello. 

Path of the Gods

Path of the Gods, or as the Italians know it “Sentiero Degli Dei”, is the marquee hiking trail along the Amalfi Coast, boasting unparalleled panoramas of the region. The nearly 6 mile trail begins in Bomerano and runs along the scenic cliffside, before descending 1,800 stairs to the city center of Positano.

The trail weaves through vineyards, lemon tree terraces, olive groves, and farmland. It features amazing views of gorges, vertical cliffs, lush landscapes, and the quaint villages that make the Amalfi Coast the traveler’s paradise that it is today.

The trail is moderately difficult and does require some planning and transportation arrangements. But the dramatic scenery and thrilling experience quickly make up for those factors. Hiking Path of the Gods was our favorite activity during our visit to the Amalfi Coast.

Limoncello

Southern Italy, particularly the region of Campania, is recognized for its production of some of the finest lemons in the world. Lemon trees fill the hillside terraces, providing an essentially unlimited supply of the delicious citrus fruit. 

These lemons are used in the production of many goods, including fragrances, ceramics, and of course Limoncello. This traditional lemon flavored liqueur has become synonymous with the region and is often served after dinner, as a gesture of hospitality and benevolence.

Oliver and Maddie were able to find a few lemon flavored refreshments of their own. While hiking Path of the Gods we ran into a remote mountain hut serving fresh squeezed lemonade. In Amalfi Town, Maddie tried a lemon sorbet. Although delicious, it was outrageously expensive.

Day Trip to Capri

A popular activity while visiting the Amalfi Coast is making a day trip to the neighboring island of Capri. Ferries can be arranged from Positano, Sorrento, or Naples and leave throughout the day. 

Capri has several attractions and things to do including a tour of the Blue Grotto, exploring the towns of Capri and Anacapri, arranging a boat tour to see the Faraglioni sea columns, wandering through the Gardens of Augustus, and riding the chairlift to Monte Solaro.

You’ll also find an abundance of luxury shopping and glamorous boutiques that showcase designer shoes and fine jewelry. Sit down for an espresso at the epicenter of Capri’s social scene, the Piazzetta, and enjoy the fashionistas mingling in the square.

Ruins of Pompeii or Paestum 

The ancient Roman ruins in Pompeii are a fascinating archeological site and only a 45 minute drive from Sorrento. Mount Vesuvius, the towering volcano dominating the landscape, erupted in 79 AD and devastated the town, leaving behind only its skeletal remains.

You can stroll through the town’s narrow alleyways, piazzas, and well preserved temples, getting an idea of what life used to be like in this thriving Roman community. In the center of Pompeii lies the forum, which was the religious and political heart of the city.

On the opposite side of the Sorrentine Peninsula you’ll find another site of captivating ruins, Paestum. These are Greek ruins from the 5th century BC with their highlight being three temples honoring the Greek gods of Hera, Poseidon, and Athena.

Fiordo di Furore

The Fiordo di Furore is a deep gorge seen from a bridge along Amalfi Drive that is home to a secluded cove and small pebble beach. Behind the beach you’ll find a small and remote fishing village.

Accessing the beach can be somewhat tricky. There is a small stone staircase leading down from the bridge, but parking is very limited in the area. The better option would be to get dropped off at the bridge by taxi or bus versus arriving from sea on a private boat tour.

Beaches

The Amalfi Coast is lined from top to bottom with stunning beaches. Many of the beaches are free, but the exclusive beach clubs often require a steep fee for access to their private beaches and to use their loungers and umbrellas.

Spiaggia Grande, the main beach in Positano, is the most famous of all the Amalfi Coast beaches. You’ll notice the colorful umbrellas propped up in the beach’s mixture of volcanic sands and small pebbles. The beach is often very crowded, so if looking for a quieter option, you can take the short scenic foot path to Fornillo Beach.

Our favorite coastal town was Atrani, largely because of its beach and picturesque setting. Atrani’s beach is much smaller and less crowded, with a more local and genuine feel. We set out a towel and played with the driftwood that had collected on the beach while gazing at the colorful boats anchored in the harbor.

Ravello

The hilltop town of Ravello is found perched high upon the mountainside and features breathtaking views of the coastline as well as the region’s most impressive villas. Ravello was our favorite town along the Amalfi Coast as it felt more authentic and less crowded than many of the towns along the water.

Villa Rufolo is home to a maze of moss covered walkways, vibrant gardens, and amazing panoramas. The famous composer Richard Wagner completed one of his operas at Villa Rufolo and still has a large influence throughout Ravello.

Villa Cimbrone is found at the far end of Ravello and boasts lush gardens filled with statues and fountains as well as the Terrazza dell’Infinito, or Infinity Terrace. Lean over the edge of the railing and peer down at the network of ravines carving their way to the rugged coastline.

Sampling the Restaurants

One thing you must do while traveling through any part of Italy is dine out. As you might expect, most restaurants along the Amalfi Coast serve fresh seafood and a variety of pasta dishes. The food is usually made from locally sourced ingredients from the region’s fertile farmlands. 

Luigi, the owner of the rental property where we were staying, treated us to a phenomenal breakfast every morning at La Tagliata. This family run restaurant provides delicious meals curated from their own on-site garden and farm. Luigi even took the kids on a tour to meet some of the farm animals.

We ate dinner at a wonderful restaurant located on the cliffside of Montepertuso called Il Ritrovo. Oliver ordered the best spaghetti and meatballs that we have ever tasted. Shirlee and I had gnocchi and Maddie had fettuccine alfredo. The owner, Salvatore, created a delightful ambiance as we indulged in our meals while watching the sunset across the Mediterranean Sea.

FINAL IMPRESSION

A trip to the Amalfi Coast is an incredible journey into some of the most breathtaking landscapes in Italy. From Positano’s rugged coastline to the towering cliffside village of Ravello, you’ll be blown away by the culture and scenery along this stretch of land.

Although the Amalfi Coast has transformed into one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations, you can still sense the deep culture roots present in the region. Nowhere is this better illustrated than in Positano’s pastel balconies, Ravello’s lush gardens, and Atrani’s medieval architecture.

We found numerous opportunities for adventure while visiting the Amalfi Coast. Hiking Path of the Gods, taking a boat tour of the coastline, and visiting nearby Capri or the ruins of Pompeii were just a few of the possibilities.

The Amalfi Coast is synonymous with Limoncello and lemon sorbet. You haven’t truly experienced the region without trying both of them. Additionally, the fresh seafood and traditional pasta dishes served in the family run restaurants throughout the coast are simply phenomenal.

As a bucket list item for every traveler, the Amalfi Coast does not disappoint. The amazing cuisine, stunning vistas, charming town, and rich history of the area will provide an unforgettable experience and memories that will last a lifetime.