OVERVIEW

Nestled in northeastern Italy, the Dolomites are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a hiking paradise, and a sanctuary for nature enthusiasts.

The landscapes through this region are breathtaking – majestic peaks rising from green meadows, dotted with quaint villages and alpine lakes. Whether you’re a seasoned mountaineer seeking the thrill of conquering lofty summits or a leisurely traveler content with gentle strolls, there’s a trail suited to your pace and preference.

For years we had wanted to visit  the Italian Dolomites and hike their renown trails. Finally in June of 2023 we were able to combine this trip with a week in the Austrian Alps to form one epic hiking trip.

LOGISTICS

Where to stay

The itinerary for our week in the Dolomites was based around those hikes that we considered the most spectacular ones in the area. Although the distances don’t appear far on a map, the roads cross over mountain passes, so it takes quite a long time to travel between certain destinations.

Cortina d’Ampezzo

We decided to divide our time equally between the western and eastern regions of Dolomites to cut down on travel time. We spent the first three days in Cortina d’Ampezzo and the next three days in Ortisei.

Cortina d’Ampezzo is a relatively large and picturesque mountain town on the eastern half of the primary Dolomites region. It has easy access to many iconic hikes including Lago di Sorapis, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Cinque Torri, and Cadini di Misurina.

It’s also less than an hour from Lago di Braies. There are many shops, restaurants and lodging options to suit budgets of all kinds. We thought Cortina d’Ampezzo was a great location as we were close to the hikes that we had prioritized but also had access to the conveniences and amenities of a larger town.

Ortisei

On the western end of the region, we stayed in Ortisei. This is also a larger town in the area and provides great access to popular areas such as Seceda, Alpe di Siusi, and the scenic mountain highways, including the Sella Pass and Passo Gardena.  Val di Funes is also easily accessible from this area.

If looking for a slightly smaller town in the western Dolomites, consider Selva di Val Gardena. This is one of the more charming towns in the area but still offers ample hotels and restaurants. In our opinion, either Ortisei or Selva di Val Gardena would be great options in this region.

DAY 1: LAGO DI BRAIES AND CIMA TOFANA

Lago di Braies

Background

Lago di Braies is a stunning alpine lake located about 45 km north of Cortina d’Ampezzo and is situated at an elevation of 1,500 meters (4,900 feet) above sea level.

The lake is often considered one of the most iconic and photogenic spots in the Dolomites. It’s famous for its crystal-clear turquoise waters that are surrounded by mountains, dense forests, and colorful meadows. 

Lago di Braies also serves as the starting point for several hiking routes, including the multi day Alta Via 1 trek, which traverses the Dolomites.

Due to its popularity, Lago di Braies can become quite crowded during peak tourist seasons, especially in the summer months. There are several parking lots at the lake, but make sure to arrive early to secure a spot. In fact, there are now strict restrictions in place regulating access to the lake.

Our Experience

Despite some jet lag, we managed to get up early for the nearly 1 hour drive from Cortina d’Ampezzo to Lago di Braies. We arrived at the parking lot of the lake at about 9 AM.

At the entrance to the lake, you can rent one of the iconic rowboats for 50 euros for 30 minutes. We chose to forgo this photo op and instead started our clockwise hike around the lake.

The circular lake trail is 3.7 km (2.3 miles) and absolutely stunning. It’s very flat and easy, but has phenomenal views of the surrounding mountains and forest with their perfect reflection on the water.

We spent about 3 hours casually walking around the lake, with intermittent breaks for the kids to play on its shoreline, getting their feet wet and playing with the rocks.

Tofana-Freccia nel Cielo Cable Car

After a morning at Lago di Braies, we made our way back to Cortina d’Ampezzo for a ride on the Tofana-Freccia nel Cielo cable car. This is a series of three lifts that transports visitors high into the Dolomites, to the third highest peak in the range.

It leaves from Cortina d’Ampezzo at the Cabinovia Freccia nel Cielo station. There is a small parking fee and the lift tickets cost €38.

The first gondola took us up to Col Druscie. Here there was a 2 km nature walk with information signs on the solar system. There was also a small but fascinating observatory that we explored as well as two small restaurants.

The second lift took us from Col Druscie to Ra Valles. Here was a pizzeria and viewpoint where we snapped a few photos. The final cable car whisked us up to Cima Tofana.

Unfortunately our view at the top was mostly obscured by clouds. Based on others’ photos, on clear days this sight is out of this world. 

From the cable car station there is a 15 minute hike to the top of Tofana di Mezzo. The trail ascends up gravel switchbacks and along the cliff edge to the third highest peak in the Dolomites.

There is a restaurant and bar up here with a large wooden terrace. We got some hot chocolate and coffee, then proceeded down the lifts and back to the hotel.

DAY 2: TRE CIME DI LAVAREDO

Background

Today we would be hiking arguably the most famous trail in the Dolomites, Tre Cime di Lavaredo. This trail circumnavigates the base of three iconic peaks, which are some of the most recognizable landmarks in the Dolomites.

Tre Cime di Lavaredo is easily accessible from Cortina d’Ampezzo. The trailhead is 20 km and a 40-minute drive from the town. The road winds up the mountainside and leads to a large parking lot. This is another very popular trail so make sure to arrive early. Parking cost €30.

The hike is a 9 km (5.5 miles) loop with 400 meters (1400 feet) of elevation around the base of three rock pillars with a couple popular mountain huts to stop at for food and relaxation. 

Our Experience

Trailhead to Forcella Lavaredo

We headed out on the trail in the counterclockwise direction with most other hikers. The trail immediately brought us to the first hut, Rifugio Auronzo before it cut across the base of the pillars.

The amazing views came into sight as we took a 0.5 km detour off the trail to the right to catch a view of the Mirante do Vale dos Tres Picos de Lavaredo.

From here we had a unique view of Tre Cime and could see into the valley much better. There were also two interesting monuments down here.

Continuing on the main trail was a lovely little chapel, the Cappella degli Alpinin. A short walk up from there is the second hut, Rifugio Lavaredo. We took a brief break here, then resumed the hike which became steeper and much more strenuous.

It finally reached the mountain saddle at Forcella Lavaredo, where we were greeted with an up close and personal view of the three peaks of Tre Cime.

Forcella Lavaredo to Rifugio Locatelli

From Forcella Lavaredo it was another 2 km walk along a wide gravel path to Rifugio Locatelli. The anticipation of traditional Italian food and cold drinks was good motivation for the short, but steep climb up to the rifugio/restaurant.  

Shirlee waited in the long line to order lunch while the kids ran around the green space and I scoped out empty tables.  The restaurant was extremely busy, but the wait was worth it. We enjoyed delicious pasta dishes while soaking in the marvelous views of Tre Cime from across the valley.

Make sure to go to the other side of the rifugio to get a view of two beautiful turquoise lakes in the green valley below. There is also the Chiesetta Alpina chapel next door.

Return trip from Rifugio Locatelli

We returned to the main trail and began the steep descent into the valley below Tre Cime. This was a rocky, slippery, and uneven path requiring good footing. 

Shortly after reaching the valley floor we began the brutal ascent up the other side. This was exhausting and the most difficult section of the trail, exacerbated by the heat and a cloudless sky.

However, once at the top it was only a short distance to Lange Alm, where we had a different but equally impressive perspective of the enormous Tre Cime peaks.

We approached the final mountain hut, Malga Langalm, as we rounded the final side of Tre Cime. We pushed on, returning to the parking lot with the jagged peaks of the Cadini di Misurina directly in front of us.

DAY 3: CINQUE TORRI AND LAGO DI SORAPIS

There were two hikes in the Dolomites on the agenda for today. We’d be hiking around the Cinque Torri rock formation in the morning and making the 9 mile round trip to the aquamarine Lago di Sorapis in the afternoon.

Cinque Torri

Background

Cinque Torre is a 13 km and 20 minute drive to the west of the Cortina d’Ampezzo city center. There is a chairlift here for €20 round trip. 

In addition to being a popular hiking destination, Cinque Torri is an abandoned but still maintained World War I museum, with a maze of trenches and bunkers at its base.

There is the option to extend the visit here by making the relatively short hike up to Rifugios Averau and Nuvolau. We opted to skip this due to weather.

Our Experience

We began our day early and reached Cinque Torri in the morning rain and fog. Conditions quickly cleared enough that we could start our clockwise hike around the stone pillars. There are a few ways to go about exploring this area of the Dolomites, but none of the hikes are long or difficult. 

The kids loved running through the trenches and exploring the bunkers. The trail had periodic informational postings, giving some background about the battles between Italy and Austro-Hungary that took place here 100 years earlier.

After reaching the other side of the rocks, we had the option of cutting directly through them back to the trailhead, or completing the entire circuit. We decided to continue walking the perimeter, and it didn’t disappoint.

As we proceeded to loop around the south side of the rocks we had gorgeous views of Rifugio 5 Torri and the valley beneath us. The trail made its way back toward the chairlift and we ate a wonderful lunch at Rifugio Scoiattoli before descending the lift back to the parking lot.

Lago di Sorapis

Background

The kids were tired after hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo the previous day, so Shirlee stayed back at the lodge with them while I hiked solo to another Dolomites classic, Lago di Sorapis. Conveniently, this trailhead was right outside our hotel.

This is an 11.5 km (7 mile) out-and-back trail, about a 15 minute drive east of Cortina d’Ampezzo. It’s almost entirely flat for the first half, but the last half consists of a 750 meter (2,500 foot) ascent to the lake.

Our Experience

The trail began on a flat gravel path passing through the forest. Initially, there wasn’t much in the way of views, but it was a peaceful hike. After a few kilometers the ascent started. 

The trail cut across a cliffside, but fortunately there were chains attached to the mountainside providing some reassurance. There were also sections with metal steps and others requiring rock scrambling.

To my left was a bottomless drop into the evergreen forest below but also an amazing view of the surrounding Dolomite mountains.

After 90 minutes I reached the bright turquoise Lago di Sorapis. I had started this hike so late in the day that I was in near complete isolation by the time I reached the lake. 

The circuit around the lake is about 1km. There are countless colorful alpine lakes in the Dolomites, but you really have to see Lago di Sorapis in person to comprehend the unique color of its water.

After an hour at the lake the sun was beginning to set so I began my descent down from the lake and returned to the hotel.

DAY 4: DRIVING THE MOUNTAIN PASSES

Today we planned to change our base from Cortina d’Ampezzo to Ortisei. There are a few different ways to make this drive. The most direct route would be the 65 km (90 minute) northern route through La Villa Stern and onto the Passo Gardena. 

We chose the slightly longer 75 km (2 hour) route through two incredibly scenic mountain passes, Sella Pass and Passo Pordoi.

Passo Pordoi

We made a brief pitstop by the historic Olympic park area in Cortina d’Ampezzo so the kids could run off some energy at the playground before our drive. The road heading west out of Cortina d’Ampezzo was full of switchbacks as it gradually rose up the mountains and eventually transitioned into Passo Pordoi. 

Passo Pordoi rises to 2,200 meters (7,300 feet) as it connects the Val di Fassa with Val Badia. It is famous for its numerous ski lifts, charming villages, and stunning views of the surrounding peaks, including the majestic Marmolada.

Unfortunately the pass was entrenched in dense fog on our drive through the area so our views were quite limited.

Sella Pass

At the end of the Passo Pordoi we took a right and ventured onto the famous Sella Pass. This iconic mountain pass heads north as it connects Val Gardena and Val di Fassa. The weather had cleared and the views through here were outstanding. The peaks of the Sella Group to our right were shrouded in clouds.

There were a series of endless switchbacks winding up the pass. The highest point is marked by Hotel Passo Sella Dolomiti Mountain Resort and a nearby parking lot. 

From the parking lot we had a bird’s eye view of the hairpin turns behind us and now fresh views of the road leading down the other side of the pass into Val Gardena. We continued on down the opposite side of the pass, through Selva di Val Gardena to our hotel in Ortisei.

Passo Gardena

The kids stayed back to play around at the hotel while I got back in the car to drive east out of Ortisei and up the Passo Gardena.

Connecting Val Gardena and Val Badia, Passo Gardena stands at an elevation of 2,121 meters (6,959 feet) above sea level. It continued today’s theme of magnificent panoramas of the surrounding peaks. 

South of the pass is again defined by the massive Sella Group while the north is comprised of the Cir Peaks in the Puez Group. A network of streams flows along the roadside on the way up the pass.

The highest point, Calfosch, has a few hotels and restaurants. From here I had incredible views of the Puez-Odle massif and its jagged peaks, alpine meadows, and unique geological features. After about an hour wandering around up here I returned to Ortisei for dinner and bed.

DAY 5: SECEDA

Background

Today we would be hiking in the Dolomites area that I was most looking forward to…the spectacular Seceda.

Seceda, found in Puez Odle Nature Park, is a mountain plateau rising to an elevation of 2,500 meters (8,200 feet). The famous Seceda Ridge is one of the most recognizable and mesmerizing rock formations in all of the Dolomites.

Accessible via cable car from Ortisei, Seceda is a popular destination for hikers in the summer and skiers in the winter. In June when we visited, the alpine meadows were blooming with vibrant wildflowers.

The most common way to get up to Seceda is from the cable car station in central Ortisei. A gondola brings hikers up the first half and a cable car is used for the final ascent. 

Immediately upon disembarking the cable car, there are amazing panoramas of the Sassolungo and Marmolada massifs. To the left of the cable car station and up a short incline is the Odle/Geisler group of jagged pinnacles, or Seceda Ridge. 

Our Experience

To fully appreciate the incredible clouds that floated up the far side of the ridge, we took a small path that led out to a fantastic vantage point. The trail was a bit precarious but the views were absolutely amazing. To the left of the ridge was the Val di Funes, where we would tour 2 days later.

Although many visitors take the lifts up to the top and do short walks near the cable car station, we wanted to see more of the plateau and opted for a longer day hike. After getting our fill of the iconic ridge from the vantage point described above, we continued in the direction of the peaks along the thin trail cutting across the ridge base. 

The trail descended, initially quite steep but then rather gently, to a charming mountain restaurant, Pieralongia. We ordered a charcuterie board for lunch while watching some rock climbers and enjoying the meadow carpeted with yellow and white flowers.

We pressed on eastward, continuing to enjoy the incredible panoramic views throughout the plateau. The trail hooked to the right and eventually circled back up toward the ridge, leading to a massive ascent back up the ridge as we neared the end of the hike.

We were nearly a week into our trip at this point and had witnessed countless spectacular views of the Dolomites, but we all agreed that Seceda was particularly special. 

We could see across the entire region, over to the Alpe di Siusi and down into the Val di Funes. The majestic mountains framed every picture and this was a truly magical day.

DAY 6: ALPE DI SIUSI

Background

Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Arm) is somewhat of a contrast to the other locations we had visited in the Dolomites. As opposed to the towering and rugged mountain peaks seen throughout most of the region, the Alpe di Siusi is characterized by rolling hills and lush meadows.

Alpe di Siusi is the highest alpine meadow in Europe and its vast expanse can keep hikers occupied for days. There is a maze of trails carving through the area in every direction.

There are a few different ways to get to Alpe di SIusi. If wanting to approach the valley from Compatsch, the options are to drive in before 9 AM, catch a bus, or take the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway. 

Our Experience

Seeing as we were staying in Ortisei, our plan was to take the much closer and convenient Ortisei – Alpe di Siusi cable car. Therefore, we’d be arriving to Alpe di Siusi at Almgasthof Mont Seuc rather than Compatsch, which is the far eastern section of the meadow.

We arrived at the cable car station shortly after it opened and ascended to Almgasthof Mont Seuc. There was a viewing platform here with phenomenal views of Alpe di Siusi and the nearly mountain ranges. We then descended down into the valley to begin our out-and-back  hike.

We hiked across the undulating terrain of Alpe di Siusi, through the colorful meadows, and past rustic cabins. With the stunning massif of Sassolungo off to our left, we walked by a horse pasture and through an evergreen forest on our way to the town of Saltria. 

Fortunately, the Florian chairlift in Saltria was operating and whisked us up to Wild O’Williams (Williamshütte), a family restaurant high up in the Dolomites. This was the perfect place for lunch.

They had a variety of food options and outside was a playground to entertain the kids. We took some photos up here and then began our return trip back to Ortisei, retracing our steps along the same path. 

DAY 7: VAL DI FUNES

For our final day in the Dolomites we had plans to visit Val di Funes. This destination was saved for our last day in the Dolomites as we would be continuing on to the Austrian Alps from here. The Val di Funes is located 30 km north (40 minute drive) of Ortisei and on the way to Austria. 

The valley is dotted with traditional Tyrolean farmhouses, ancient churches, and idyllic hamlets. Santa Maddalena is the most popular town to visit in the area.

Two beautiful churches in the valley have been extensively photographed and should be easily recognizable. These are the church of St John and the Santa Maddalena Church.

An easy 3 km (2 mile) hike up a hillside to the north of town brings visitors to a viewpoint providing a panorama of Santa Maddalena Church framed by the Odle/Geisler mountain group. 

Another popular trail in this area is the Adolf Munkel Weg trail. Unfortunately due to time constraints we didn’t have time for this one. We walked through town to see the postcard worthy Church of St John and then headed north for our Austrian adventure.

FINAL IMPRESSIONS 

A hiking trip in the Dolomites promises to be an unforgettable adventure through some of the most stunning landscapes on Earth. With its jagged peaks, lush valleys, and crystal-clear lakes, there are endless opportunities for exploration and discovery.

Lodging accommodations and restaurants are scattered throughout the region, ranging from budget friendly options to luxury resorts. Hikers can access a network of well-marked trails in this Dolomites region that cater to all levels of experience, from leisurely strolls to challenging ascents.

We thoroughly enjoyed our time hiking through the Dolomites. There was an infinite supply of hiking trails, all spectacular in their own unique way. 

While we really could have spent another week or two in the region and barely scratched the surface, a week seemed like a good amount of time to see the highlights and not feel too rushed.

Whatever activities you might have planned here, hiking in the Dolomites promises to deliver moments of astonishment and inspiration.