OVERVIEW

The Fimmvörðuháls day hike is one of those rare trails that feels like stepping into several different worlds in a single day. Tucked away in the heart of southern Iceland, it combines waterfalls, glaciers, volcanic craters, and lush valleys in a single, unforgettable journey.

Beginning at the base of Skógafoss, the path leads hikers past waterfall after waterfall before climbing into the high country between two glaciers. From there, the terrain shifts dramatically, moving from grassy slopes to volcanic craters and steaming lava fields before dropping into the green, sheltered valley of Þórsmörk. 

We hiked Fimmvörðuháls in August 2025, and while the hike itself was breathtaking and full of adventure, planning it felt at times almost as challenging as the trail itself. Between arranging lodging, coordinating transportation, and packing the right supplies, there’s a lot to think about to ensure a safe and successful trek.

From pacing the long initial climb to navigating the windswept volcanic plateau and finally reaching the welcoming forests of Þórsmörk , this walk through will give you the tools to make the most of one of Iceland’s most unforgettable adventures.

STATISTICS AND MAP

Distance: ~15.5 miles (25 km).

Elevation gain: ~3,900 feet (1,200 meters).

Highest point: ~3,445 feet (1,050 meters).

Typical time: 8-10 hours as a day hike vs 2 days with an overnight spent at one of two mountain huts.

Difficulty: Challenging (long distance, steep climbs, variable terrain, unpredictable weather).

Trailheads:

• South: Skógar (Skógafoss waterfall).
• North: Þórsmörk (Básar or Langidalur campgrounds).

Season: Best from late June to early September (when snow has melted and huts/buses are operating).

Highlights: 20+ waterfalls in the Skógá valley, the volcanic craters of Magni and Móði (from the 2010 eruption), Eyjafjallajökull & Mýrdalsjökull glaciers, panoramic ridges, and the lush Þórsmörk valley.

LOGISTICS

Transportation Options

Sorting out transportation can be one of the trickiest parts of hiking Fimmvörðuháls. Unlike a loop trail, Fimmvörðuháls runs point-to-point, with one trailhead at Skógar on the southern coast and the other trailhead deep in the remote highlands of Þórsmörk. 

That means you can’t simply return to where you started once the hike is done. Instead, you’ll need to think ahead about how to get to your chosen trailhead and, just as importantly, how to get back from the other side. 

Þórsmörk isn’t easy to reach—driving there in a standard rental vehicle isn’t a viable option. Crossing Þórsmörk’s Krossá River safely requires a specialized 4×4, and attempting it without the right vehicle or experience is dangerous and often leaves cars stranded with costly damage.

With buses, taxis, and even hitchhiking all in the mix, sorting out these logistics can feel almost as daunting as the hike itself. But with a little planning, you can line everything up so that once you’re on the trail, all you have to worry about is the next step forward. Here is a breakdown of the transportation options.

Hiking from Skógar to Þórsmörk

If you’re starting your trek in Skógar and have a rental car, one strategy is to leave the vehicle at a stop along the Reykjavík–Þórsmörk bus line. That way, when you ride the bus out of the Þórsmörk valley at the end of your hike, you can hop off right where you parked. The tricky part is still figuring out how to get to Skógar to start the trek.

• Option #1: The most straightforward option is to take a bus in the morning to Skógar. Companies like Sterna run a “Hop On Hop Off” bus route along the southern Icelandic coast between Reykjavík and Jokulsarlon that passes through Skógar. You can buy a one-way ticket on this bus to Skógar from wherever you leave your car. However, make sure you leave your car at a stop that is along the morning bus route to Skógar AND on the afternoon/evening bus route out of Þórsmörk. One problem with this plan is that these buses don’t arrive at the Skógar trailhead until about 10:30 am, which makes for a very late start if you’re trying to finish the 15-mile trek in one day. But if you’re planning to spend the night in Þórsmörk, this option works perfectly.
• Option #2: Another possibility is hitchhiking. There’s plenty of traffic along the Ring Road, and Skógafoss is a popular destination, but it’s a gamble. You might luck out quickly, or you might waste precious hours waiting for an early morning ride to Skógar.
• Option #3: And then there’s always the taxi route. Icelandic taxis are pricey—think several hundred dollars depending on where you’re starting—but they’re reliable and will drop you right at the trailhead. For some hikers, the convenience is worth the large price tag.

If you have a car, you could leave it in Skógar and start the hike right from the trailhead. The upside is obvious—you can begin as early as you want, giving yourself the best shot at catching the last bus out of Þórsmörk.

The challenge comes afterward: you’ll need to get back to your car in Skógar later in the evening. The bus from Þórsmörk can drop you at Seljalandsfoss, but from there it’s either a taxi ride or hitchhiking back to your car. Unfortunately, this late in the day the Sterna “Hop On Hop Off” bus isn’t running in that direction, so your options are limited.

Hiking from Þórsmörk to Skógar 

Starting the Fimmvörðuháls trek in Þórsmörk adds another layer of logistical headaches. You’ll need to leave your car somewhere along the Reykjavík–Þórsmörk bus route and ride in with one of the highland buses. Most of these depart Reykjavík around 7 a.m. and reach the Básar campground in Þórsmörk by late morning, usually around 11 a.m.

The problem? If you begin hiking that late, there’s almost no chance of making it all the way to Skógar in time to catch an afternoon bus back to your car. The last south coast buses typically leave Skógar by mid-afternoon.

That leaves you with three choices: hitchhike or grab an expensive taxi back, spend the night in Skógar and return the next day, or stay in Þórsmörk first and start hiking at dawn. Either way, you’ll be carrying overnight gear across one of Iceland’s toughest trails, which adds significant weight and difficulty.

A Note on Highlands Buses

Several companies run highland buses in and out of Þórsmörk—Sterna, Trex, Reykjavik Excursions, and Thule. Service usually runs from mid-to-late June through September, though exact dates depend on road and river conditions.

When booking, be sure to check pickup and drop-off times carefully. Catching a morning bus often means you won’t hit the trail until late morning, while an afternoon departure leaves you racing the clock to make it back before your ride leaves.

Þórsmörk itself has three bus stops: Básar, Langidalur, and Húsadalur. Since they’re all separated by a couple miles, picking the right one is important. The Fimmvörðuháls trailhead is located at Básar, so booking your bus ticket at that stop will spare you from extra hiking at the beginning or end of an already long day.

Pro tip: Seats on these buses can sell out during peak season, especially on weekends. It’s best to reserve your tickets in advance so you’re not stuck scrambling for last-minute options.

What We Did

We arranged for a taxi to meet us at 7 a.m. at the N1 in Hvolsvöllur, left our car there, and rode in the taxi to Skógar, starting the trail around 8 a.m. The early start gave us plenty of time, and we finished by 3 p.m.—a very fast pace. 

For the return, we booked the Trex bus out of Þórsmörk at 6 p.m. The ride back to Hvolsvöllur took about an hour, where we reunited with our car and drove on to our rental property in Hella.

Which Direction to Hike

The direction you choose to hike Fimmvörðuháls usually comes down to practical details—like where you’re staying, how transportation lines up, or whether you’re connecting with the Laugavegur Trail. If all those factors are equal, though, the choice is really about the kind of experience you want. Here’s what to expect from each direction.

Skógar to Þórsmörk:

Most hikers begin in Skógar, and for good reason—it’s the more scenic and rewarding direction. Following the Skógá River, you’ll pass waterfall after waterfall head-on, rather than glancing back for the view. 

The climb is more gradual in this direction, and the payoff comes with the jaw-dropping descent into Þórsmörk at the end of the day. The valley opens in front of you in a way that feels otherworldly. That said, the downhill is steep, often slippery, and tough on the knees, with chains and loose dirt sections that can be tricky.

Þórsmörk to Skógar:

Beginning Fimmvörðuháls in Þórsmörk kicks off with a demanding uphill slog, but afterward the descent into Skógar is long and manageable. The scenery is still remarkable, though much of it unfolds behind you. 

Day Hike vs Overnight Trek

Hiking Fimmvörðuháls can be done in a single day or split into an overnight adventure. Completing it in one push means covering over 15 miles and about 4,000 feet of elevation gain in 8–12 hours. It’s strenuous, but traveling light and finishing in a day frees you from carrying camping or overnight gear. 

On the other hand, breaking the trek into two days allows you to move at a more relaxed pace, savor the scenery, and worry less about catching buses. The tradeoff is needing advance reservations at huts or campsites and hauling extra gear across challenging terrain.

If you plan to hike Fimmvörðuháls as an overnight trek, there are only two mountain huts where you can stay:

• Baldvinsskáli Hut, managed by Ferðafélag Íslands, lies just below the Fimmvörðuháls Pass on the Skógar side. It sleeps 20 on floor mattresses, but you must bring your own bedding. A small kitchen and heater are available, though water is only sold in jugs by the warden. Stays cost about 7,000 ISK per person and should be reserved beforehand. Camping is cheaper, but the weather here can be very harsh.
• Fimmvörðuháls Hut, managed by Útivist, sits at the highest point of the pass, about a 30-minute detour from Baldvinsskáli along the red-marked trail. It accommodates 23 people in bunks with mattresses, though guests must bring their own bedding. Like the other hut, there’s no running water. Stays cost around 7,200 ISK per night and advance reservations are recommended due to limited space and its remote, exposed location.

Water

Opportunities to refill water along the Fimmvörðuháls Trail are limited. The first chance comes just five miles in, at the small bridge crossing the Skóga River. 

It’s commonly noted that Baldvinsskáli and Fimmvörðuháls Huts don’t provide drinking water to hikers. That said, when we stopped at Baldvinsskáli Hut, the host kindly let us top up our bottles after purchasing tea.

Beyond these huts, there are no streams or facilities until you reach Þórsmörk, so it’s essential to carry enough water for the entire day. For a full Fimmvörðuháls hike, I recommend bringing at least three liters per person, adjusting upward if the weather is warm or you plan to move at a fast pace.

WHEN TO GO

The best time to hike in Iceland’s highlands is during the short summer season, typically from late June to early September. During this period, snow has melted from the trails, rivers are more manageable to cross, and the F-roads leading into the interior are open. 

Days are long, with nearly 24 hours of daylight in midsummer, giving hikers plenty of time to explore. July and August usually provide the most stable weather, though conditions can still change rapidly. Outside this window, trails are often inaccessible due to snow, flooding, or closed roads, making summer the optimal season.

WHAT TO BRING

Here’s a solid packing list for the Fimmvörðuháls hike, keeping in mind the distance, elevation gain, and Iceland’s unpredictable weather:

STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE TO FIMMVÖRÐUHÁLS

Trailhead at Skógafoss

Skógafoss is the iconic starting point for the Fimmvörðuháls hike and a must-see attraction on its own. This 60-meter waterfall plunges dramatically over a basalt cliff, creating mist that often forms rainbows on sunny days. 

Hikers begin by climbing a staircase alongside the cascade, offering panoramic views of the waterfall and surrounding valley. The area also provides parking, restrooms, a campground, and a few nearby restaurants, making it an ideal spot to prepare before tackling a trek into the highlands.

Waterfall Way – 5 miles

The stretch known as Waterfall Way along the Skógá River is the first major section of the Fimmvörðuháls hike and showcases some of Iceland’s most stunning cascades. 

From Skógafoss, the trail follows the river upstream, winding past more than twenty waterfalls, each with its own character and charm. Some plunge dramatically into deep gorges, while others fan gently over moss-covered cliffs. 

The path gradually climbs, offering increasingly expansive views of the surrounding valley and coastline. Although the trail is well-marked, it can be slippery in places, so you’ll need to watch your step closely. 

This section allows you to set a comfortable pace, enjoy frequent photo stops, and acclimate to the elevation gain, preparing both body and mind for the more challenging volcanic and highland sections ahead.

Ascent to Baldvinsskáli Hut – 3 miles

After leaving the waterfall-filled Skóga Valley, you’ll cross a small, unassuming footbridge over the Skóga River that signals the transition from lush greenery to the stark highlands. 

On the other side of the river is a trail map that outlines two different trail options. The blue trail is the official Fimmvörðuháls route that provides the most direct route to Þórsmörk and passes along Baldvinsskáli hut and up to Fimmvörðuháls Pass. This is the route that we chose.

The red trail detours slightly to the west and leads to Fimmvörðuháls Hut. It does reconnect to the blue trail soon after the hut, but is a less traveled route. Both trails are marked well with colored trail marker posts, making it hard to get off track.

After crossing the Skóga River, the trail gradually climbs a gravel road that stretches across barren, windswept terrain to Baldvinsskáli Hut. Vegetation disappears and is replaced by jagged rocks and volcanic ash. 

Though the landscape is monotonous, the path is steady and manageable. This section is often considered the least exciting part of the trek, with little more than rock, ash, and wind, but it carries you higher into the highlands and closer to Þórsmörk. 

This road eventually makes its way to Baldvinsskáli Hut, offering shelter, rest, and a chance to refuel before the more dramatic volcanic section. The warden is also very knowledgeable, providing helpful information about the trail and updates on the day’s weather forecast.

Baldvinsskáli Hut to Fimmvörðuháls Pass – 2.3 miles

After Baldvinsskáli Hut, the trail passes between Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers while featuring a patchwork of mud, shallow streams, and lingering glacial ice. Just a few years ago, hikers would have had to cross several sizable snow fields here, but the glaciers have receded significantly, leaving only minimal patches of snow and ice behind. 

The first snow field, though reduced, remains a tricky crossing with steep sections, deep crevices, slippery mud, and unstable ice. When we hiked Fimmvörðuháls in 2025, many hikers avoided the most hazardous parts by taking a short detour into a shallow gulch to the left, a safe and efficient workaround. 

From there, the trail climbs another 400 feet through slick volcanic mud, making footing challenging, even with trekking poles. At the top, the path merges with hikers coming from Fimmvörðuháls Hut, and the landscape opens into a plateau featuring a stark black desert of volcanic sand and ash.

After crossing a second snow field—now only about 20 meters long—you reach the highest point of the trek at the twin craters, Magni and Móði, standing at about 3,450 feet elevation. 

These craters, born from the 2010 eruption of the Eyjafjallajökull volcano, are named after Thor’s sons, quite fitting since Þórsmörk (Thorsmork) marks the end of the trek. A short detour takes you up to the summit of Móði, where the views open up even more, giving a spectacular vantage point over the surrounding area.

At this point you’ll get your first glimpse of Þórsmörk off in the distance. Still several miles away, the sight of green vegetation breaking through the dark, somber landscape adds a welcome splash of color.

During our hike in 2025, we met two hikers who had completed this route ten years earlier. They were amazed at how much the glaciers had receded. Where they once crossed vast snowfields, we now found only black volcanic earth and scattered snow patches. 

Entering Fimmvörðuháls Pass, you are framed by the ice of Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull, one of the trail’s most dramatic sections. The terrain here transforms yet again into jagged lava rocks and volcanic debris. Careful footing is essential to navigate this section safely.

Fimmvörðuháls Pass to Þórsmörk – 4.3 miles

After conquering the Fimmvörðuháls Pass, the toughest hiking is behind you, and the trail begins a thrilling descent toward Þórsmörk. This stretch is arguably the highlight of the hike, as the black volcanic landscape gradually softens into vibrant green moss clinging to the jagged cliffs.

The wind picks up dramatically after the pass, and gusts can make footing tricky as the trail begins its steep descent down the northern mountainside. Loose scree and slippery sections add a perilous element, but yellow stakes mark the route to guide you safely. 

As the descent eases in grade, it actually becomes trickier. The path narrows along a canyon wall, where chains offer extra support—though some are loose or missing altogether. 

To your left, a lush green slope drops into the striking Hvannárgil Canyon. Adventurous hikers can take an alternate path down into the canyon, though be warned—it’s steeper, narrower, and far more demanding than the main route.

A wide plateau follows, offering easier terrain and continued breathtaking views of Þórsmörk before the final descent. Far off in the distance to the right are stunning views of Mýrdalsjökull glacier while off to the left is the lush Þórsmörk valley.

The trail soon descends along a ridgeline known as Cat’s Spine Ridge (Kattarhyggir). True to its name, the route leads across several knife-like ridges with steep drops into the canyons and valleys below.

As you drop into the valley, lush birch forests and alpine flora reappear, and glacier-fed rivers wind through the landscape. 

The Krossá riverbed appears on the valley floor while bursts of wildflowers add even more color to the lush surroundings. Eventually, the trail levels out at Básar campground, signaling the conclusion of the incredible Fimmvörðuháls trail.

Þórsmörk

Básar Campground is one of the three main hut and camping areas in Þórsmörk. It’s a quiet, scenic spot with river access and basic facilities—perfect for unwinding after a long hike. 

When we passed through, no shops were open, though there is a small restaurant at the campground called Básabitinn. It serves light meals and drinks but operates on limited hours, so plan accordingly if you’re hoping to grab something to eat.

We soon realized our bus was scheduled to depart from Langidalur rather than Básar, nearly two miles away and a 45-minute walk. We weren’t thrilled about this discovery after already covering 15 miles. A trail continues west along the Krossá River and eventually leads across a seasonal pedestrian bridge to Langidalur.

Langidalur serves as another campground in Þórsmörk. It also features some basic mountain huts that can be reserved. A small shop here sells resupply items like simple meals, tea, and local treats. From there, it’s another mile of easy hiking to the Volcano Huts in Húsadalur, a cozy retreat with private cabins, a sauna, and a restaurant.

When my bus finally arrived, the driver mentioned that I could have in fact boarded at Básar despite my reservation being for Langidalur. Nevertheless, always double-check your pickup location and schedule if taking a bus in or out of Þórsmörk!

FINAL IMPRESSIONS

The Fimmvörðuháls hike is more than just a trail—it’s a journey through Iceland’s raw and varied landscapes, compressing waterfalls, glaciers, volcanoes, and lush valleys into a single unforgettable adventure.

While the 15 miles demand endurance, careful planning, and respect for unpredictable weather, the rewards far outweigh the effort. Each section feels like entering a new world, from the thundering cascades of Skógafoss to the volcanic craters and greenery of Þórsmörk.

Lodging and camping options, transportation arrangements, gear preparation, and other logistics can seem daunting, but they are simply part of the challenge that makes this trek so rewarding.

Hiking Fimmvörðuháls isn’t just about reaching the finish line—it’s about experiencing the dramatic contrasts of Iceland’s highlands in one sweeping, breathtaking experience. For those ready to put in the effort, this trail will leave you with memories that linger long after your boots are off and your travels in Iceland are over.