OVERVIEW
Our delayed adventure
The Kalalau Trail along the Nāpali Coast of Kauaʻi had long been a hike I was dying to experience. Shirlee and I had traveled to Kauaʻi many times over the years for conferences in Poʻipū, but due to procrastination with planning or lack of childcare, we had never followed through with this hike.
Well that changed in 2023. We had a conference booked for January and were determined to hike the Nāpali Coast’s Kalalau Trail this time around. Our fabulous nanny Rianna would be coming on the trip, so she could watch the kids while we spent 2 long days hiking. We had also found a place that would rent us camping supplies for the hike, so we wouldn’t have to bring all those items from Minnesota.
Introduction
Renowned as one of the most breathtaking hikes in the world, the Kalalau Trail follows the Nāpali Coast as it winds through lush valleys, towering cliffs, and pristine beaches.
The hike begins near Ke’e Beach in Hā’ena State Park at the end of the Kūhiō Highway in northwest Kauaʻi. It has a ton of elevation change and is a very challenging hike.
The trail ends at Kalalau Beach, which is only accessible on foot from this trail. We had seen this beach on previous trips from a catamaran and helicopter, however stepping foot on it and staying the night would give us a whole new appreciation for it.
What makes hiking the Kalalau Trail worth the effort are the spectacular views along the Nāpali Coast. From the beginning we saw incredible views of the jagged coast, powerful waterfalls, and lush vegetation.
Kalalau Beach itself was a spectacular sight. Tucked away far from civilization, it offered an unspoiled stretch of coast and peaceful seclusion.
There was quite a bit of research and preparation that was required to hike this incredible trail in Kauaʻi . Hopefully this article will provide the information and inspiration you need to also feel confident and pursue the Kalalau Trail for yourself.
HIKING STATISTICS
Distance: 22 miles (35 kilometers) round trip.
Total Elevation Gain: 6,500 feet comprised of many smaller ascents and descents.
Difficulty: Strenuous.
When: Year round, but more unpredictable weather in the winter months.
Duration: If going at a fast clip it’s feasible to do the entire round trip hike in a day. But this is not realistic for most hikers and it generally requires 2 full days and one overnight camping. On average, hiking the 11 miles to Kalalau Beach will take 7-9 hours.
Where to Stay: There are two designated camping areas along the Kalalau Trail: Hanakoa Campsite, located approximately 6 miles from the trailhead, and Kalalau Beach, located at the end of the trail. Prearranged permits are required for all camping.
Conditions and Dangers: Hiking the Kalalau Trail can be very dangerous. At about 8 miles in from Ke’e beach is Crawler’s ledge. This is a narrow section of the trail along a cliff, so hikers with a fear of heights might struggle here. Shortly after Crawler’s ledge the trail had been washed away. If wet and muddy, this part of the trail might be impassable. Finally and most importantly, the risk of flash floods is very real. Many people have died on this trail by trying to cross streams after rainstorms.
LOGISTICS
Camping permits
There was quite a bit of preparation that went into our hike. Hāʻena State Park now requires an advanced reservation if planning to visit. The exception is for those planning to camp at Kalalau Beach (and Hanakoa campsite) and have a valid camping permit for the Nāpali Coast State Wilderness Park.
The camping permits can be reserved 90 days beforehand, but can be quite competitive so we made our reservation very early. The cost was $35 for nonresidents. Make sure to have a screenshot and/or print out of this permit and have it on your person during the hike.
Hanakāpīʻai Valley is found 2 miles in from the trailhead, and is a popular day hike. For those only planning to go this far, all that is required is the Hāʻena State Park entry permit. For ANYONE going past Hanakāpīʻai Valley, a camping permit is needed.
Getting there
There are two ways to get to the trailhead, drive yourself or take the shuttle bus.
Seeing as we had been staying all the way down in Poʻipū, the more logical option for us was to drive and park at the trail. After purchasing a camping permit, we were able to provide its identification number on the same website to also make a parking reservation for $40.
There is also a daily shuttle bus running from 6:20 AM to 5:40 PM. It leaves Hanalei every 20 minutes and makes a few stops on its way to Hāʻena State Park. The cost is $40 per person.
Equipment
Shirlee and I didn’t want to lug a bunch of camping gear all the way from Minnesota to Hawaii in order to do this hike. Fortunately, we found a place in Kapaʻa, Pitch a Tent Kauaʻi , that would rent us everything we needed for the adventure.
We reserved a tent, sleeping bags, sleeping pads, a backpack and hiking poles for a very reasonable price. They also provided small propane tanks for about $5.
What to bring
- Tent or hammock for overnight camping.
- Sleeping bag and sleeping pad for comfort.
- Water purification system or tablets for safe drinking water.
- Sturdy hiking boots with excellent traction.
- Lightweight and moisture-wicking clothing.
- Nutritious, high-energy snacks to fuel your journey.
- First aid kit including basic medical supplies.
- Map, compass, and/or GPS device for navigation.
- Battery to charge essential electronics.
- Sunscreen, sunglasses, and hat for sun protection.
- Insect repellent to ward off pesky bugs.
OUR EXPERIENCE HIKING KALALAU TRAIL
Arrival
We had been staying far down in Poʻipū. On a previous trip to Kauaʻi , Shirlee and I had done the first 2 miles of this hike to Hanakāpīʻai Valley. We had started the hike in late morning and vividly recalled the midday heat frying us on this section of the trail.
We did not want a repeat of that experience so we intended to start the hike very early.
We had our camping and parking permits at the ready with all of our supplies and we left Poʻipū at 5 AM. It was a good 90 minute drive to the parking lot. As we were nearing the trailhead it began to rain.
We had been checking the forecast on a daily basis for a week, and the weather generally had looked promising. However, weather is far from predictable in Kauaʻi, and many rain showers are only brief, only to be followed by sunshine minutes later.
We parked and sure enough the rain let up. We had to show our parking pass to a ranger at the parking lot, tossed our backpacks on, and took the short trail through the forest to the trailhead.
Trailhead to Hanakāpīʻai Valley
As the trail progressed, the landscape transformed, giving way to dense forests and rocky terrain. We had to navigate steep inclines and rocky outcrops, but the effort was eventually rewarded with the sight of Hanakāpīʻai Valley and the sound of distant waves crashing against the shore.
After approximately 2 miles of hiking, the trail emerged at Hanakāpīʻai Beach, a secluded paradise framed by towering cliffs and swaying palm trees. The beach is a haven for nature lovers, offering opportunities for swimming, sunbathing, and exploring the pristine coastline.
While Hanakāpīʻai Beach is undeniably beautiful, swimming is not recommended due to strong currents, unpredictable undertows, and a powerful surf. It’s essential to respect the power of the ocean and adhere to any posted warnings or advisories.
After soaking in the serenity of Hanakāpīʻai Beach, most people choose to retrace their steps back to Ke’e Beach but some continue on to Hanakāpīʻai Falls, a stunning waterfall located about 2 miles further inland through an unmaintained trail.
While it was tempting to linger here and further absorb the stunning scenery, we had another 9 miles of hiking in store for us today. We continued on down the muddy and less trafficked trail toward Kalalau Beach.
Hanakāpīʻai beach to Hanakoa campsite
Leaving Hanakāpīʻai Beach behind, the trail led inland, winding its way through more valleys and along soaring cliffs. The panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and coastline continued, offering the occasional glimpse of cascading waterfalls in the distance.
The trail to Hanakoa Campsite was characterized by steep inclines, rocky terrain, and many narrow sections of the trail. The path was well marked and straightforward, but remained challenging due to areas of thick mud and frequent steep ascents and descents.
We crossed through bamboo forests and saw many vibrant tropical flowers, creating a lush and immersive environment.
As the journey continued, the sounds of rushing water became more pronounced, signaling Hanakoa Stream and the nearby campsite. Hanakoa Campsite is found about 6 miles inland from the initial trailhead. It offers a serene setting for weary hikers to rest and recharge.
The campsite features tent platforms beneath the shade of towering trees, providing a comfortable and sheltered space for overnight stays. There are also primitive restroom facilities available.
Some hikers continue further inland to Hanakoa Falls, a stunning waterfall located just a short distance from the campground. Hikers can take a side trip to explore the waterfall and cool off in the refreshing pool at its base, providing a welcome break from the rigors of the trail.
Hanakoa to Kalalau Beach
The journey from Hanakoa Campsite to Kalalau Beach marks the culmination of an epic adventure along the Kalalau Trail. Spanning approximately 2.5 miles, this final stretch presented us with more awe-inspiring vistas and challenging terrain but also the promise of paradise awaiting at journey’s end.
Leaving Hanakoa Campsite behind, we continued along the rugged coastline, traversing narrow pathways carved into the cliffside. We had constant breathtaking views of the turquoise waters of the Pacific Ocean below, with sheer cliffs rising majestically above.
Crawler’s ledge
Only half a mile from Hanakoa Campsite lies the notorious Crawler’s Ledge. This is a famed, but narrow and precarious stretch of trail. It hugs the cliffside, with sheer drops to the ocean below.
While thrilling, this section of the trail required caution and focus, as one misstep could result in serious consequences. We walked slowly and deliberately, but it was not as terrifying as I had read. It never felt too unsafe so long as we were paying attention and conditions were appropriate.
Mudslide
About another mile after Crawler’s Ledge we came across a section I was even more concerned about. This area is exposed to the elements and not protected by trees.
Unfortunately the trail was recently washed away and seeing as it steeply slopes to the ocean and is made of clay, it can be treacherous, particularly if muddy.
We had packed microspikes as many people had commented about this section being impassable. Fortunately, park staff had recently installed some poles in the area designed for hikers to grab on to if they start to slide.
We again walked carefully through this area and had little difficulty.
As we approached Kalalau Beach, the landscape transitioned from dense forest to a steep mountainside composed of rock and clay.
We saw goats off to our right in the Kalalau Valley and the pristine shoreline, swaying palm trees, and golden sands of Kalalau Beach.
Kalalau Beach
Upon reaching Kalalau Beach, we were greeted by the sight of enormous sea cliffs framing the beautiful shoreline, with the sound of crashing waves providing a soothing soundtrack to the journey’s end.
Here, amid the untouched beauty of the Nāpali Coast, we set up our tents and enjoyed the tranquility of this remote paradise.
At the far end of the beach was a small waterfall where we washed up and filled our water supply for the night. Facilities at the beach are limited, with no running water or amenities available.
But the opportunity to hike the Kalalau trail and experience the raw beauty of the Nāpali Coast made this of little concern to us.
We set up the jet boil and made our dinner, while soaking in the unparalleled beauty of Kalalau Beach. We were absolutely exhausted and went to sleep early to the sound of swaying palm trees and crashing ocean waves.
Return trip
We again were up early the following day and excited to start the return hike. At about 5 AM we packed up our supplies and reversed course, heading back to civilization.
It was pitch black for about 2 hours. We had the trail marked on a GPS so we knew our basic location and the approximate route, but there are many smaller false trails near the beach so we occasionally veered slightly off the main trail. We eventually found the proper trail but this would have been much easier in daylight.
Eventually we reached the large open clay mountainside and the sun began to rise. The beautiful Nāpali Coast came back into sight.
From here on out the trail was simply a reverse of what we had done the prior day. We had a couple brief showers but the stream crossings remained straightforward and safe. We exited the trailhead at about 2 PM, after about 8-9 hours of hiking.
IMPRESSIONS
The Kalalau Trail is not for the faint of heart, with challenging terrain, steep inclines, and narrow pathways requiring careful navigation and physical endurance.
However, the rewards are well worth the effort, with opportunities for camping, swimming, and exploring some of Hawaii’s most remote and untouched landscapes.
It’s a strenuous hike along the Nāpali Coast, but the scenery is stunning from start to finish. If properly prepared for the trek and precautions are taken at the potentially dangerous stream crossings, this will be an unforgettable experience.
Whether you’re a seasoned backpacker or a casual hiker, the Kalalau Trail offers an incredible adventure through some of the most spectacular scenery in the world, leaving hikers with memories that will last a lifetime.
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