OVERVIEW
The remote town of El Chaltén in southern Argentina offers convenient access to the hiking paradise of Patagonia and the headliner of those trails just might be the breathtaking hike to Laguna Torre.
Patagonia attracts nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers from all over the world who crave its picturesque landscapes and thrilling hikes. From multi-day treks to short strolls to roadside waterfalls, there’s a hike for everyone in Patagonia.
We spent four magical days in El Chaltén and enjoyed its charming cafes, relaxing in the luxurious Los Cerros del Chaltén Hotel, and the overall atmosphere created by its laid back residents and seasonal visitors.
But mostly, we loved the wide array of day hike opportunities and the stunning views of Patagonia’s towering peaks, glacial lakes, and expansive river valleys.
Despite the numerous opportunities for exploration in the remote wilderness of Argentina’s Patagonia, a hike to the awe-inspiring Laguna Torre should be included on any itinerary of the region. The view of the lake being fed by twin glaciers beneath Cerro Torre is incredible and a sight we had to see for ourselves.
LAGUNA TORRE STATISTICS
The hike itself takes all day but is not too strenuous. There are a couple variations on the route and a 2.5 mile extension that you should include if possible. It’s not technical and overall fairly flat with only a few stretches of elevation gain.
Distance: 10.9 miles (17.4 km) out and back trail. The optional extension to Mirador Maestri adds about 500 feet of elevation gain and 2.4 miles.
Elevation Gain: 1,640 feet (500 meters).
Duration: 6-8 hours.
Difficulty: Moderate. There are a few areas of ascent but most of the trail is very flat.
Where: The two trailheads (which soon merge) are located on the western side of El Chaltén. The official trailhead is located at the end of Los Charitos Street.
When: Late October to early April.
WEATHER
Weather conditions in Patagonia are extremely variable, occasionally hostile, and completely unpredictable. While hiking in the region around El Chaltén our outfits ranged from light t-shirts to thermal underwear and thick coats. The mornings were chilly but the temperature warms up as the sun rises so dressing in layers is important.
We were fortunate to have had good weather while staying in El Chaltén. However, being in remote areas of Patagonia will subject you to a variety of elements.
We had also trekked in the neighboring Chilean Patagonia and had been subjected to fierce winds, torrential rains, and even summer snowfall. So you’ll need to be prepared for all possible weather conditions when hiking to Laguna Torre.
WHAT TO BRING
Since the weather is so unpredictable and erratic, you’ll need to bring a variety of items on the trail.
Patagonia’s summer sun can be very intense. Having protection in the form of a hat, breathable shirts, sunglasses, and sunscreen will be vital to avoid getting burned. The winds can be ferocious at times, so having a strap for the hat might be a good idea.
Having multiple clothing layers or a thick parka are important for warmth. The mornings can be quite cold and if clouds set in or precipitation develops the temperature can drop quickly.
Even if the day begins sunny and the forecast looks promising, alway bring a raincoat when hiking in Patagonia. An unexpected downpour could quickly turn your day from an incredible adventure into a miserably wet experience.
Of course a good pair of broken-in hiking boots with good ankle support is critical for any hike, especially one of this length and variable terrain. There wasn’t much elevation gain on the hike so trekking poles aren’t necessary.
There are no options for food along the trail. You’ll need to bring snacks and a lunch along for the hike. Also make sure to bring a water bottle and have plenty of water.
Although the glacial streams around El Chaltén are considered safe to drink, the Rio Fitz Roy was a murky brown color. I personally wouldn’t drink its water without a filter.
GETTING THERE AND WHERE TO STAY
Almost everyone hiking to Laguna Torre will be based in El Chaltén, the trekking capital of Argentina’s Patagonia. There are only about 1,700 residents of the town, but it transforms into a haven for hiking enthusiasts during the summer months.
The trailhead is located at the western side of El Chaltén, so anyone based in the town can reach it in less than 20 minutes.
Most visitors to El Chaltén will be coming from El Calafate. From there, buses can be booked and rental cars arranged in order to complete the 215 km drive to El Chaltén, which takes a little less than 3 hours.
El Chaltén has a variety of lodging options, ranging from relatively high end hotels to primitive campsites. There are also several hostels and B&Bs located throughout the town. Every kind of traveler can find something to suit his or her needs.
We stayed at Los Cerros del Chalten, a lovely hotel right in town. We loved our stay. They provided breakfast and had a restaurant for optional dining. The room itself was wonderful, having a large window for us to watch the sun rise and set over Patagonia.
We found El Chaltén itself to be welcoming and actually had quite a bit going on. Backpackers descend on the quaint town in the summer months and transform it into a lively community.
Thriving cafes and restaurants line the main road, San Martin. They are filled with trekkers sharing stories of their adventures through the wilderness of Patagonia.
There are even a fair amount of shopping opportunities in the town, including a few stores selling hiking gear if you need to pick up any last minute supplies.
OUR EXPERIENCE HIKING LAGUNA TORRE
Along with Laguna de los Tres, Laguna Torre is one of the marquee hikes of Argentine Patagonia. It was a fairly long trail and strenuous at times, but the scenery along the way was astounding and the sight of Laguna Torre was unforgettable.
The official trail to Laguna Torre was cited as 11 miles and 1600 feet of elevation. However, we ended up hiking 14.3 miles and conquered 2200 feet of elevation. This was due to the detour that we added to include Mirador Maestri.
El Chaltén to Mirador Cerro Torre
We woke up to overcast weather and dense fog. The trail began just outside of our hotel on the western side of El Chaltén. There are actually two trailheads, but they end up merging after only a few minutes of hiking.
We chose the more southern of the two trails and after leaving El Chaltén began a short climb up the eroded hillside. After only 2 km and 20 minutes we reached the first viewpoint, Mirador Margarita.
The clouds obscured our view looking westward. Ordinarily, there are panoramic views from this viewpoint of Cerro Solo, Adela range, Cerro Torre, and even Mount Fitz Roy. We could however see Margarita Waterfall from across the gorge.
Mirador Cerro Torre to Laguna Torre
The two trails soon reconverged and ascended gently through the thick vegetation to the second viewpoint, Mirador Cerro Torre. There was an option to hike up to the cone-like Mirador de los Condores. We decided against it given the poor visibility and continued on down the trail after snapping some pictures.
We dropped down into the aptly named Valley of Death and Rebirth. Ahead of us was a sea of thick brush interrupted by the skeletal remains of neighboring trees. The trail remained flat for a mile or two as we walked through some mundane meadows.
The trail forked and we headed to the left, along the raging and opaque Rio Fitz Roy. We snaked along the river bed until reaching D’Agostini base camp. Some hikers stay for the night here before making the short hike to Laguna Torre for sunrise.
The thick clouds from the morning began to dissipate and we were treated with the day’s first views of the mesmerizing Cerro Torre. We increased our pace as we weren’t sure how long the visibility would last.
The dirt path transformed into a boardwalk and then a small boulderfield. Finally, we had reached the unparalleled beauty of Laguna Torre.
Laguna Torre
The lake itself was murky and a brownish gray color, not at all like the brilliant turquoise color we had seen a day earlier at the Huemul Glacier.
But what made the lake so special were the numerous blue icebergs floating on its surface and, of course, the iconic Cerro Torre in the distance.
We joined dozens of other hikers eating lunch on the mountainside while watching the clouds drift in and out of the towering peaks in front of us. After eating we walked down to the lake, along the shoreline, and even jumped out onto a few rocks for photos.
Mirador Maestri
We decided to add on an optional extension to the trail. Another trial followed the ridge along the north side of the Laguna Torre and led to Mirador Maestri. This detour added on a total of about 2.5 miles and 500 additional feet of elevation gain.
We thought this was the most challenging portion of the trail. We were completely exposed to the wind and sun as the path continued its constant ascent to Mirador Maestri.
The final 200 feet was more or less an unorganized scramble up the mountainside to the viewpoint as the official trail became obscured and poorly maintained.
Mirador Maestri provided a much closer view of Glacier Grande and Glacier Torre as they fed directly into Laguna Torre below. We could now see the far side of the lagoon which gave a much different perspective than the views we had from the eastern shoreline.
If you can muster the energy, I would definitely recommend adding on this extension to the day’s hike.
While taking in the views along the ridge, we heard a waterfall behind us. We noticed some unofficial trails descending into the forest behind us so we ventured on down.
We found a creek cascading down the mountainside into a series of picturesque waterfalls. I hiked up one side of the falls to get an idea of how extensive they were as Shirlee was preoccupied with the complicated process of photographing a waterfall.
Return to El Chaltén
After we ate a small snack at the secret waterfall we began the descent back to El Chaltén. Hiking down the mountainside proved much easier on our legs. But make sure to watch your footing closely on the uneven scree and rocky trail as one misstep could lead to a very sore ankle.
Although you can return on the same trail going through D’Agostini base camp, we decided to follow the alternative route that runs a little further north. It descended steeply from Laguna Torre into the forest where it meandered along a creek and through a different campsite.
The trails reconnect again near the Rio Fitz Roy. We hiked back through the skeleton tree forest, past the two viewpoints, down the crumbling hillside, and back into El Chaltén.
By the time we reached the town we were both exhausted. We grabbed some food from a restaurant in town and returned to the hotel to watch the sunset over Patagonia’s beautiful mountains.
FINAL IMPRESSIONS
Having the opportunity to hike in the wilderness of Argentine Patagonia for 3 days was the experience of a lifetime. We had already hiked to Huemul Glacier and would soon see Laguna de Los Tres, but Shirlee and I both agreed that the hike to Laguna Torre was truly special.
Once reaching the charming village of El Chaltén, it was very easy to find the trail as it literally began at the edge of town, only a 10 minute walk from the backyard of our hotel.
Although not featuring the brutal ascents of Laguna de Los Tres, the hike to Laguna Torre did pose some challenges. Adding on the extension to Mirador Maestri added significant elevation gain along rugged and uneven terrain while the overall length of the trail made for quite a long day.
However, the trail had several flat stretches and for the most part was well maintained. It’s a hike that anyone of reasonable fitness should be able to tolerate.
A few sections of the trail were fairly mundane and monotonous, notably the meandering hike through the featureless shrubs of the Valley of Death and Rebirth. But the payoff upon reaching Laguna Torre was incredible.
The sight of Cerro Torre’s jagged spire peeking through the parting clouds above Laguna Torre was breathtaking. Bright blue icebergs drifted in the serene glacial lagoon as it reflected the mountainous vistas in the distance. It was an unforgettable sight.
Overall we both loved the exhilarating journey through Patagonia’s verdant forests, meandering rivers, and amongst the towering Ande peaks to Laguna Torre. The trail’s remarkable beauty and moderate difficulty make it an experience that should be included in any El Chaltén itinerary.
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