INTRODUCTION

At the southern tip of the Earth, tucked away in Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park, lies the epic W Trek. The nearly 50 mile hike through the remote wilderness of Patagonia offers some of the world’s most breathtaking scenery while presenting a challenge that tests even the most avid hikers.

Over the course of 4-5 days the experience of trekking amongst towering granite peaks and alpine glaciers, along pristine lakes and rugged shorelines, and across lush alpine meadows will be unforgettable. The spectacular views and terrain along the route are unlike anything else found on the planet.

The W Trek certainly tested our resilience and presented a number of challenges. Some days of the trek were brutally long and required seemingly endless ascents along the towering Paine Massif. The unpredictable and sometimes inhospitable Patagonia weather also added an element of excitement and adventure to the journey.

We found this to be a difficult trek to both visualize and organize prior to having actually completed it. My hope is that this article will clarify the geographic layout of the area and trekking route, provide essential logistics to help prepare for the hike, and also give a glimpse of the incredible beauty that awaits.

WHAT TO PACK

Food and water

The W trek is a multi day adventure through a hostile climate of Patagonia with minimal infrastructure along the route. As a result, most of what you’ll need on the trail will need to be carried on your back.

The refugios offer half and full board, while also providing packed lunches. Although not always the most enticing food, the quantity is ample and we found very little need for additional snacks to supplement their meals.

It’ll be important to have a water bottle or camelback to carry some water, but the glacial runoff and alpine lakes provide an endless supply of fresh water along the trail.

Camping gear will need to be carried if not choosing to stay in the refugios. For an additional cost, however, some of the campsites will provide pitched tents, sleeping bags, mats and other camping supplies.

Electronics

The refugios all have electricity and the ability to charge devices. Most even have limited Wi-Fi for an additional cost. We carried a portable battery pack to ensure our electronics stayed charged throughout the hike. I couldn’t imagine my phone dying on the trails and not having the ability to capture footage of Patagonia’s amazing scenery.

Clothes

Weather conditions along the W Trek in Patagonia can be highly variable and notoriously unpredictable, making it essential to be well-prepared for a variety of scenarios. We often experienced four seasons in a single day, ranging from brilliant sunshine to fierce winds, heavy rain, and even snowfall.

The summer sun can be quite intense. A wide brimmed hat, sun screen, and protective sleeves are crucial to avoid sun burns.

We were exposed to both rain and snow, so definitely bring a raincoat and I’d also recommend rain pants. The snow we encountered was only a superficial dusting, but it could be far more intense. So don’t forget a winter hat and waterproof gloves.

We found it more practical to carry a variety of layers rather than a bulky parka. These included a nano puff, fleece, sweatshirts, thermal underwear, and thinner sun shirts. We typically began the day wearing many of these layers and gradually peeled them off as the day wore on. 

A pair of wool socks and broken-in hiking boots with good support will also be priceless in order to properly tackle the variable terrain along the trail. Hiking poles would be helpful, but we were able to complete the trek without them.

W TREK HIKING STATISTICS

Distance: 45.5 miles (73 km) point to point hike.

Elevation: 9,900 feet (3,000 meters).

Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous. Hiking slowly and spacing the trek out over several days can ease the daily elevation and distance requirements considerably. 

When: October – April, but peak trekking months are December-February. It’s possible to complete the trek in the winter months but a guide would be mandatory.

Duration: Variable, but usually 4-5 days.

DO YOU NEED A GUIDE OR TOUR COMPANY?

The short answer is no, so long as hiking in Patagonia’s southern months. Although the trail is long and moderately challenging, it’s well maintained and sufficiently sign posted. The W trek doesn’t require expert navigation skills and there aren’t any sections of the trail that are particularly technical.

Our experience

Even though there’s no need for a guide, you might consider a tour company to help with the planning process. When Shirlee and I were planning this trip we found it very hard to envision the area, understand where to start and end, determine how to reach the national park, how to book lodging, and other basic logistics.

After a few hours of research we gave up planning the W Trek independently and found a travel agency that took care of everything for us. We used a company called Pygmy-Elephant, but there are dozens to choose from.

Pygmy-Elephant arranged a virtual meeting between us and one of their representatives months before the trek. We informed them that we would like 4 days of trekking, preferred refugios over camping, and would even like them to arrange an activity such as a glacier walk or kayaking Lago Grey.

To add even more complexity, we would be coming to Torres del Paine from El Calafate in southern Argentina. Fortunately, they arranged transportation for us across the border directly to Hotel Lago Grey, where we would begin the W Trek.

After only a few days they mailed us a detailed itinerary of our week. Overall they did a fantastic job and saved us a lot of time and stress without any major complications.

Pros and Cons

The downside of a travel agency, of course, is that it’s not cheap. The total cost will depend on several factors including the type of lodging, number of excursions, amount of transportation being arranged, how many days on the trail, etc. Overall you can expect to pay a few thousand dollars per person.

Knowing what we know now, the W Trek is certainly doable without employing a travel agency. However, this requires a significant time investment. You’ll have to perform the complicated process of personally booking the lodging, arranging transportation, and getting your own park permit.

GETTING TO TORRES DEL PAINE

Southern approach

Punta Arenas

Although we would be approaching Torres del Paine from the north via Argentina, most travelers come from the south. 

The town of Punta Arenas has the region’s primary commercial airport. It is serviced by two airlines, receiving daily flights from Santiago and a handful of other regional airports.

Several companies, including the commonly used Bus-Sur, offer daily buses from the Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales, the closest town to Torres del Paine. Tickets for the three hour ride can be pre-booked online beforehand or directly at the Punta Arenas bus terminal.

Puerto Natales

Getting from Puerto Natales to the entrance of Torres del Paine takes 2 hours and requires booking a second bus. Several buses leave throughout the day from the Puerto Natales bus terminal, from as early as 7 AM. 

They stop at 5 different access points throughout the park (Laguna Amarga, Pudeto, Pehoe campground, Administración, and Hotel Lago Grey).

Tickets for Bus-Sur, the primary company servicing this route, can be purchased online beforehand. Other bus lines sell tickets directly from the bus terminal (Terminal Rodoviário) or from hostels. 

A one way ticket from Puerto Natales to Laguna Amarga costs about $12,000 CLP ($12 USD) and to Hotel Lago Grey costs about $20,000 CLP. Round trip tickets cost about $22,000 CLP and $35,000 CLP, respectively. 

Torres del Paine

The early morning buses enter Torres del Paine around 9 AM at Laguna Amarga, where everyone needs to show their national park tickets. Those hiking the W Trek from east to west will get off here.

There are several shuttles waiting at Laguna Amarga to transport hikers to the eastern trailhead at Hotel Las Torres, 7 km away. A one way ride will take 20 minutes and cost about $5,000 CLP ($5 USD), paid directly to the driver.

After stopping at Laguna Amarga, the buses continue on to the nearby Pudeto catamaran stop. Those hiking the W Trek from west to east (starting at Paine Grande) will get off here and take the catamaran to Paine Grande. 

Four catamarans run daily during peak season from Pudeto to Paine Grande and can be booked on the Hip Sur website. The trip takes about 30 minutes and costs $30,000 CLP ($30 USD) for a one way ticket and $60,000 CLP for a round trip ticket.

The bus continues on to Administración, Pehoe campground, and finally Hotel Lago Grey, where it arrives 4.5 hours after departing Puerto Natales. We started the W Trek from Hotel Lago Grey rather than Paine Grande, which will be detailed later.

After completion of the W Trek, returning to Puerto Natales is more or less the reverse of the steps outlined above. In the evening, catamarans run from Paine Grande back to Pudeto and buses run from Torres del Paine back to Puerto Natales.

Our northern approach from Argentina

Leaving Argentina

We had spent several days hiking in Argentinian Patagonia, so it made more sense for us to head into Torres del Paine from the north. 

Pygmy-Elephant arranged for a van to pick us up from the hotel we were staying at in El Calafate at about 7 AM. We left the city heading east on highway 40 after picking up a few more fellow travelers. 

An hour or so later we reached the intersection of highway 7 at El Cerrito. We were unloaded from the van and boarded a bus equipped with enormous off-roading tires. Highway 7 is a rough gravel and somewhat unmaintained road.

A couple hours later we reached the Argentinian side of the border crossing. We were led off the bus and into a long line that moved at a snail’s pace. After an hour we were processed by immigration, got back on the bus, drove about 100 meters, and repeated a similar process on the Chilean side of the border. 

Arriving in Torres del Paine National Park

The route now turned very scenic as we drove through the outskirts of Torre de Paine. The bus made a few stops to take in the majestic peaks, dynamic meadows, pristine lakes, and raging waterfalls. We even saw a flamboyance of flamingos. Eventually we arrived at Pudeto and deboarded the bus. 

We had a small meal and drinks here while waiting for our next ride, which never showed up. Fortunately, we were able to contact our travel agency who quickly organized a driver who brought us to Hotel Lago Grey 45 minutes later, where we would stay the night.

Torres del Paine National Park tickets

In order to visit and trek in Torres del Paine, you will need to obtain a national park ticket. This can only be done beforehand on the official Chilean National Park webpage. These will need to be on your person or a copy on your phone in order to be shown at the headquarters in Laguna Amarga.

HIKING DIRECTION

The W trek follows a route in the shape of a W, hence its name. It can be hiked from west to east or vice versa. Most people choose to hike from west to east, as did we, and this worked out really well. 

Our travel agency recommended the west to east direction and there were a few benefits to this route. It gave us the opportunity to wake up early on our last day at Refugio Chileno and reach Las Torres for sunrise. Often the three iconic spires glow orange in the morning sun which can be quite the spectacle. 

The wind typically blows in this direction as well, thereby putting it at our back for the majority of the trek. We were also going with the flow of trekking traffic and not having to constantly step off the trail for oncoming hikers. 

Finally, the west to east route allowed us to be completely finished with the trek and back to Hotel Las Torres by early afternoon. Pygmy-Elephant had arranged a driver to pick us up there and drive us back to El Calafate in Argentina that evening.

WHERE TO STAY

There are a few very nice hotels located in the park, including Hotel Lago Grey, Hotel Las Torres, and the uber luxurious Explora Patagonia Hotel. These hotels are not located within the W Trek itself, but can be used as the launching pad to start the trek or as a means of pampering oneself after completion of the trek.

That leaves the only two options for shelter along the W Trek, refugios and campsites. There are several of these scattered along the trekking route and many different itineraries can be created based on which sites are chosen.

We strongly preferred to stay in refugios, and voiced that to our travel agency. We did not want to haul camping gear around for days. Our bags were already quite heavy and some of the days along the W Trek are quite rigorous and notoriously long. 

Additionally, the unpredictable and occasionally hostile weather had dampened the experience of a friend who attempted to camp along the W Trek a year before we did. Her campsite was flooded and the winds had wreaked havoc on her tent.

Refugios

The refugios are very basic but have all the essentials. They have the option for full board, offering breakfast, dinner, and a packaged lunch for the road. The meals are simple but adequate. The packed lunch is some variation of a sandwich, fruit, and granola bar.

They will generally provide linens, but you could save some money at certain refugios by bringing your own sleeping bag. Limited Wi-Fi is often available for a reasonable cost, paid by PayPal. 

Most of the refugios will have shared dorms with bathrooms accessible in the same building. We were able to book our own personal bunkie at Refugio Los Cuernos. It was small but cozy and we really appreciated the privacy.

Booking the refugios is a somewhat complicated process in that two different companies run them. The two most westerly refugios (Grey and Paine Grande) are operated by Vertice Patagonia while the four most easterly refugios (Francés, Cuernos, Chileno and Central/Norte) are managed by Las Torres Patagonia.

Bookings can be made on the websites and should be done as soon as reservations are being accepted for the year. There’s even a company, Torres Hike, that will perform the complex bookings for you at a fraction of the cost a traditional travel agency would charge.

Campsites

Many of the refugios have campsites adjacent to them. They can often be purchased on a tiered program. Some offer pre pitched tents, mats, and sleeping bags for an additional cost. 

Facilities at the refugios are shared with the campers and they can also purchase half or full board meals.

OUR W TREK ITINERARY

Day 1: Hotel Lago Grey to Refugio Paine Grande

Hotel Lago Grey and ferry

We had arrived at Hotel Lago Grey from El Calafate, Argentina, the night prior. It was a long 6 hours of travel through remote areas of Patagonia to reach Torres del Paine. We were ecstatic to finally get the bucket list W Trek underway.

After waking up, we ate breakfast and were led outside. A few different lines had formed with people waiting to board the ferry across Lago Grey. One way tickets from Hotel Lago Grey to Refugio Grey are $90 and should be booked online prior to arrival.

The staff brought a few people at a time down to the lake. We boarded a motorized dinghy that transported us through the choppy Lago Grey water to the ferry.

We whizzed by brilliant blue icebergs and the snowy peaks of the Paine Massif while making our way up the lake toward Glacier Grey. The scenic ride only took about 45 minutes.

The ferry dropped us off with a few other thrilled hikers near Refugio Grey. Most of the passengers stayed on the ferry for a tour of Glacier Grey and would later return to Hotel Lago Grey. 

Hanging bridges

We walked over to a small wooden shack owned by Bigfoot Patagonia. They were supposed to take us on a kayak tour that morning. Unfortunately the lake water was too rough so the tour was canceled. 

While trying to determine a fallback plan we hiked the short distance over to Mirador Glacier Grey. This brief detour brought us to a raised plateau with wonderful views across Lago Grey to the glacier in the distance.

While getting tossed around by the wind at the viewpoint, we met some other disappointed kayakers who recommended we hike to a series of three hanging bridges. 

Seeing as our legs were fresh, we returned to the main trail and hiked in the northerly direction through a dense forest. A moderate ascent brought us to the John Gardner Suspension Bridge. 

The wind was ferocious. We held on to the steel cables for dear life while gingerly walking on the wooden slats, trying not to look down. The view across the gorge was fantastic and we were now much closer to the immense Glacier Grey. 

We survived the crossing and continued on through another forested incline until reaching the second, and slightly more impressive suspension bridge. This was a great location for lunch. 

We walked back and forth over the bridge, trying to get the perfect picture of the long bridge surrounded by picturesque wildflowers, and of course Glacier Grey. We had hiked up 1,200 feet from the shoreline at this point and could even see deep crevices on the surface of the glacier.

Descent to Refugio Paine Grande

We knew there were several more hours of hiking to reach Refugio Paine Grande so we returned down the mountainside. We passed by Refugio Grey and continued along Lago Grey, now heading south.

Another gradual ascent brought us to a rocky plateau and Mirador Lago Grey. The stunning scenery along this stretch of the W was some of the best we saw the entire week. Lush vegetation and spring flowers were blooming as Glacier Grey was tucked away behind the turquoise water of Lago Grey.

Eventually we reached Refugio Paine Grande. This was a huge refugio and packed to the brim with other Patagonia hikers. We almost got lost just trying to find our dorm room. We shared the room with three other exhausted hikers. After settling in we went down for chow. 

The food was the worst we had all week. It was dull and tasteless. We supplemented it with some snacks we had brought along with us. The facilities were clean and there were a few gathering rooms for socializing, where we hung out before dozing off for the night.

Day 2: Refugio Paine Grande to Refugio Los Cuernos

Lake Sköttsberg

We woke today to cold, damp, and overcast weather. After eating another bland meal from Paine Grande, we tossed on our raincoats and began what would easily rank as the longest and most challenging day of the trek.

Rain immediately set in as we trudged along the shoreline of Lago Sköttsberg. It was only a light drizzle, but the fierce winds directed the raindrops horizontally and made the weather feel much more extreme.

It soon let up and after no time we had shed several layers of clothing and were even greeted by a rainbow.

This was a very relaxing stretch of the W Trek, featuring phenomenal panoramas across the aquamarine lake, amazing views of the towering Cuernos del Paine, and fascinating landscapes of barren skeleton trees mixed amongst the colorful meadows. 

We hiked 4-5 miles through rolling hills along Lake Sköttsberg and soon arrived at Campamento Italiano, marking the entrance to the awe-inspiring Valle del Francés. 

Valle del Francés

We followed the other hikers’ lead and left our heavy packs at Campamento Italiano prior to continuing on the relentless 2,000 feet up to Mirador Británico. The trail ascended up the right side of the valley, highlighted by spectacular views of the snow capped Cerro Paine Grande and Glaciar del Francés. 

As the elevation increased we were treated to gradually more impressive views of the turquoise Lago Nordenskjöld that lay in the distance behind us. The trail meandered in and out of the forest and required some minor rock scrambling before ultimately reaching Mirador del Glaciar Francés.

The fierce Patagonia wind whipped through this elevated clearing while many hikers were resting, eating lunch, or photographing the dramatic landscapes. Several waterfalls cascaded down the glacier and we’d frequently hear the thundering sound of avalanches. 

More forested trails led us to a rock quarry, characterized by a barren, almost lunar, landscape that seemed quite unique compared to the rest of the terrain we had hiked. There was one more big push and a steep stretch of boulder hopping before finally reaching Mirador Británico. 

Mirador Británico

Although we had already seen Glacier Grey and would soon see the towering peaks of Las Torres, this was my favorite view of the entire W Trek. 

We were treated to 360 degree panoramas of towering granite peaks, hanging glaciers, and the remote wilderness of Torres del Paine National Park. 

After eating lunch we began the descent back down the valley, focusing on every step as our legs now felt like jello. We still had a long afternoon in front of us as we would be staying at Refugio Los Cuernos.

In a short amount of time we were back at Campamento Italiano and tossed our heavy backpacks back on as we now hiked along Lago Nordenskjöld. By this point we were absolutely exhausted and these last few miles were a blur.

We plodded through Camping Francés, along the rocky beach of Lago Nordenskjöld, and finally reached Refugio Los Cuernos. We had booked a private room here, staying in an adorable, detached bunkie that was just what we needed after today’s brutal hike. 

The food and atmosphere in the main cabin was far better than Refugio Paine Grande. The facilities were detached from our room, but still adequate. 

We had walked over 16 miles and conquered 3,500 feet of elevation today. Every breathless step tested our endurance, but the inspiring scenery kept us motivated. We were very happy with what we had achieved by the end of the day.

Day 3: Refugio Los Cuernos to Refugio Chileno

Today we would be hiking a relatively flat stretch along Lago Nordenskjöld to Refugio Chileno. Thankfully, it would be the easiest day of the W Trek, which is just what we needed after the arduous hike through the Valle del Francés.

Although not hiking through alpine glaciers and rugged peaks like we were at Mirador Británico, today featured its own unique beauty. The color palette created by the vibrant red flowers, lush green meadows, bright blue sky, and turquoise Lago Nordenskjöld were absolutely amazing.

After the initial flat section along the lake, the trail began a gentle ascent. We crossed through a horse pasture and had to navigate an unexpected marsh by hopping across some strategically placed wooden boards.

The trail cut north along the eastern base of Monte Almirante Nieto where we were met with the strongest winds of the week. We were being tossed around like ragdolls hoping we wouldn’t be sent over the cliffside.

The wind died down as the trail followed the Ascensio River up through the valley, eventually leading to Refugio Chileno. This was another simple refugio, but provided all the essentials. 

The meals were again adequate, although not spectacular. The facilities were clean, convenient, and located right across the hall from our room. We shared a small dorm room with two other lovely couples that contained three sets of bunk beds.

We had arrived by early afternoon and had time to recuperate and share stories with the other travelers while imagining what adventures tomorrow would bring.

Day 4: Refugio Chileno to Hotel Las Torres

Trail to Las Torres

We requested an early breakfast from Refugio Chileno in hopes of reaching the iconic three peaks of Las Torres to catch the sunrise. The weather, however, did not appear to get the memo.

We left our heavy packs at Refugio Chileno as we’d be returning there after seeing Las Torres. The trail was wet and covered in an overnight dusting of light snow. The trail would be an ascent over the course of 2 miles with about 1,500 feet of elevation. 

We hiked through areas of dense fog and misting rain. Thankfully the canopy of trees provided some cover from the elements. Initially the ascent was only minimal as the trail wound through the forest, across rickety bridges, and over a few areas of downed trees. 

Suddenly the trail dramatically steepened and led us up several slippery rocks covered in the morning’s rain and snow. As we broke through the trees the trail transformed into gravel and eventually we came across a large boulder field. 

Three peaks of Las Torres

Coincidentally, upon our arrival the clouds were moving out of the area and visibility had improved considerably. We quickly navigated the boulders, rounded a corner, and finally got an unobstructed view of the three majestic pillars of Las Torres.

The glacial lake nestled beneath the three spires was remarkable. We took pictures from every available angle as clouds drifted in and out of the area. After an hour we retraced our steps and returned to Refugio Chileno, having just witnessed one of the most magnificent sights of the week.

Descent to Hotel Las Torres

We grabbed our packs and continued back through Valle Ascensio, avoiding the winds that had knocked us around the previous day. The trail carved its way through the meadows on its descent back to the civilization of Hotel Las Torres.

Shirlee and I felt an amazing sense of accomplishment as we pulled into Hotel Las Torres. We treated ourselves to a well earned extravagant lunch. We talked about our favorite experiences of the week and how we couldn’t wait to plan our next trek.

FINAL IMPRESSIONS

Organizing the W Trek on your own can be difficult. Infrastructure in the region is limited and planning a trip requires coordination with bus companies, refugios, and the national park. 

Seeing as this was our first trek, we were glad to have the expertise and convenience of our travel agency, Pygmy-Elephant. A self-arranged itinerary, however, is certainly doable.

The trek itself was moderately challenging. Most days featured at least one strenuous ascent and a correspondingly steep descent. Hiking to Mirador Británico and Las Torres were the most demanding parts of the trek, but the exertion was worth it for the incredible views.

The unpredictable and occasionally harsh weather created another element of adventure. For the most part we were lucky enough to have sunshine and mild temperatures. Butwere were also subjected to snow, rain, and what felt like gale force winds.

Hiking the W Trek through the rugged landscapes of Chilean Patagonia had been a dream of ours for years. Our experience certainly lived up to expectations.  What really made the W Trek special was the unparalleled scenery.

Every single leg of the hike treated us to azure lakes, massive glaciers, pristine meadows, and towering peaks. This was one of our all time favorite trips and definitely deserves a spot on the top of anyone’s hiking bucket list.