OVERVIEW
Kerlingarfjöll is a breathtaking geothermal mountain range and popular tourist destination found in the remote Icelandic Highlands. Situated between the Langjökull and Hofsjökull Glaciers, the region offers some of the most dramatic landscapes and thrilling hikes in the entire country.
In recent years Kerlingarfjöll has gained in popularity due to its colorful volcanic scenery, towering mountain peaks, and the iconic Hveradalir Geothermal Area. The area is dotted with steaming vents and boiling mud pots throughout its vast multicolored mountains.
Along with Þórsmörk and Landmannalaugar, Kerlingarfjöll is one of the must-visit areas of Iceland’s spectacular Highlands. This guide will outline how to get to the region, where to stay, and some of the best activities to do once you arrive.
BACKGROUND AND STATISTICS
The volcanic and glacial activity occurring in Iceland’s central Highlands over millennia is responsible for the formation of Kerlingarfjöll. The mountains are composed primarily of rhyolite, a unique type of volcanic rock that gives the area its characteristic red, orange, and yellow color.
Kerlingarfjöll experiences continuous geothermal activity, heating the groundwater and leading to the formation of hot springs, mud pots, and steam vents. The contrasting glaciers, colorful hills, and geothermal activity is what makes Kerlingarfjöll such a special and unique location.
The name “Kerlingarfjöll” translates to “The Old Woman’s Mountain”. According to Icelandic folklore, a giant woman was transformed into stone and became part of the area’s mountains.
In the early 20th century, Kerlingarfjöll gained notoriety and tourism increased to the area. In the 1960’s a ski resort was developed in the surrounding mountains while huts and basic facilities were built to accommodate the rising number of visitors.
By the 1990’s, interest in skiing had declined and the ski resorts closed. However, hiking in Kerlingarfjöll was gaining popularity so the huts were repurposed for hikers and nature enthusiasts. In 2017, Kerlingarfjöll was designated as protected area, and today it’s one of the most recognizable and popular destinations in the Icelandic Highlands.
HOW TO GET THERE
Getting to Kerlingarfjöll requires navigating the remote and unpaved Highland F-roads. In order to travel safely on the dirt and gravel roads, you’ll need a 4×4 with adequate ground clearance and suitable tires. Alternatively, you could book a bus or tour out of Reykjavik.
In general, the F-roads open sometime in mid June through mid to late September before the first snowfall. To reach Kerlingarfjöll you’ll need to take the F-35 route, sometimes referred to as the Kjolur Route). It leads from Gullfoss in the south to Blunduous in the north.
The distance from Reykjavik to Kerlingarfjöll is 185 kilometers and takes about 3-4 to drive whereas the distance from Route 1 in the north to Kerlingarfjöll is 120 kilometers and takes about 2-3.
Compared to some of the other F-roads, the F-35 is in relatively good condition and easy to drive. The section from Kerlingarfjöll to Gullfoss is partially paved, fairly smooth and wide, and contains no river crossings. The section from Kerlingarfjöll to Route 1 in the north is rougher and contains one minor river crossing. Any basic 4×4 should have no trouble driving the F-35.
WHERE TO STAY
Kerlingarfjöll is located in one of the most remote mountain ranges of the Icelandic Highlands and as a result, there’s only really one option for lodging. The Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort is nestled in the Ásgarður Valley, at the footsteps of the Hveradalir Geothermal Area, and provides a wonderful base to explore the region.
The resort has a variety of lodging options, including cozy hostel huts, the Highland Base Hotel, and a more budget-friendly campsite. Although the hotel rooms and hostel huts are rather expensive and basic, they’re also clean, quiet, and have their own private bathroom.
Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort has a complimentary breakfast buffet and a delicious (although expensive) restaurant for dinner. You’ll also find a large geothermal hot tub overlooking the lush green Ásgarður Valley. We stayed one night in the Highland Base Hotel and really enjoyed the experience. It was a very convenient and comfortable place to stay when exploring the area.
In addition to the hotel and hostel huts, you can also camp at Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort. The campsite is located along the riverbed, at the base of the hotel. No advanced reservations are needed and facilities including a bathroom, showers, and a simple kitchen are found on site.
HOW LONG TO STAY
Some travelers opt to visit Kerlingarfjöll as a day trip from Reykjavik. While that is an option, we’d recommend spending 2-3 days here to get a more in depth look at this remarkable area.
With only one day, you’d really only have the chance to briefly explore the Hveradalir Geothermal Area. This attraction alone requires several hours to thoroughly explore and if you get bad weather with rain or fog, you won’t be able to see anything.
Two days provides enough time to embark on a morning hike through Hveradalir and visit the Kerlingarfjöll Hot Springs in the afternoon. In the evening grab a nice dinner at Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort.
The next day you could hike the short but steep and strenuous trail up Snækollur Peak for spectacular views of the entire Kerlingarfjöll region. If you have extra time, consider a visit to the Hveravellir Hot Springs, an hour drive north of Kerlingarfjöll .
BEST THINGS TO DO
Hveradalir Geothermal Area
If you only do one thing while visiting Kerlingarfjöll, make sure it’s visiting the Hveradalir Geothermal Area. The name “Hveradalir” translates to “Hot Springs Valley,” and this spectacular area truly lives up to its name, offering a vivid display of geothermal activity.
Hveradalir can be reached from Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort either by driving or hiking. The dirt and gravel mountain road winds its way for nearly 6 kilometers up to the geothermal area, where you’ll find a small parking lot. Alternatively, you can hike almost 12 kilometers round trip to Hveradalir from the resort, which may take as long as 5 hours total.
The vibrant and unique landscape at Hveradalir is simply incredible. You’ll find fuming vents and boiling mud pots scattered throughout the colorful rhyolite mountains, creating an otherworldly atmosphere. Stairs lead down to the geothermal area where a network of boardwalks wind their way throughout the steaming earth as vapor emerges from fumaroles.
The area is home to several hiking trails, but I’d recommend the short 4-kilometer loop trail that begins at the base of the first set of stairs. Even in August we encountered snow on the trail, so make sure to have a good pair of hiking boots.
Don’t let the weather dissuade you from visiting Hveradalir. Although we encountered dense fog at Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort, we ascended through it on our drive to Hveradalir and were rewarded with clear skies and breathtaking scenery.
Kerlingarfjöll Hot Spring
Another popular and easy hike in this magical mountain range leads from Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort to a hot spring. The 2.6-kilometer round trip trail runs along a thermal stream and through the neon green Ásgarður Valley to the secluded and tranquil Kerlingarfjöll Hot Spring.
The hike is relatively flat and well marked. The refreshing spring can be accessed by a boardwalk and is a nice reprieve from the chilly mountain weather. Make sure to bring a towel and dry clothes as there’s no facilities in the area.
Snækollur Peak
The demanding, yet thrilling, hike up to Snækollur Peak was our favorite hike in the Kerlingarfjöll region. Although you can begin the hike from the Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort, I’d recommend driving to the small parking lot at the trailhead in Keis, just before the turn off to Hveraladir.
The out-and-back trail is only about 7 kilometers (4 miles) round trip, but features an elevation gain of 500 meters (1,700 feet). It traverses rocky outcrops and patches of snow on its way to Snækollur, the highest peak in the Kerlingarfjöll mountain range at 1,477 meters (4,846 feet).
Although a strenuous hike, the 360-degree views from Snækollur Peak were spectacular and made the arduous ascent worthwhile. We were gifted with breathtaking vistas and could see as far as the Langjökull and Hofsjökull Glaciers, the Kjölur Highlands, and down into the geothermal area of Hveradalir.
Gýgjarfoss Waterfall
Gýgjarfoss is a lesser-known but beautiful waterfall found on the roadside of F-347 on the way to Kerlingarfjöll. The 16-foot waterfall is part of the glacial Jökulfall River, which originates from the Langjökull Glacier.
A small parking lot is located on the side of the F-347 with a dirt path leading down to a platform where you can watch the waterfall cascade into the river below. While not as powerful or famous as other Icelandic waterfalls such as Gullfoss or Skógafoss, it’s an impressive attraction and worthwhile stop on your drive to Kerlingarfjöll .
Backpacking the Circle Route
If you’re looking for a grand tour through Kerlingarfjöll, consider hiking the multi day Circle Route. The 47-kilometer (29 mile) trek takes most people 3 days to complete and offers an all encompassing experience with spectacular views of the region.
Plan on spending the nights in mountain huts while meeting other adventurous hikers along the way. Space is limited in the huts, however, so make reservations online beforehand with Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort.
FINAL IMPRESSION
Traveling to the remote Kerlingarfjöll mountain range in the Icelandic Highlands is an amazing experience that features some of the most unique and stunning landscapes in the entire country. From the majestic peak of Snækollur to the steaming hills of the Hveradalir Geothermal Area, there’s no shortage of extraordinary things to see and do.
Our stay at the Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort provided a comfortable and convenient base from where we explored the region. It gave us easy access to the trailheads leading to Kerlingarfjöll Hot Spring, Snækollur Peak, and the Hveradalir Geothermal Area. And with only two days in the region, we were able to complete everything on our Kerlingarfjöll bucket list.
Although hiking to Snækollur Peak was our favorite experience, the real highlight of Kerlingarfjöll are the fuming vents, boiling mud, and colorful mountains of the Hveradalir. You truly have to see it to believe it. If you plan to visit the Icelandic Highlands, make sure to budget a few days to visit this magnificent region.
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