OVERVIEW

La Palma, commonly referred to as “La Isla Bonita”, is widely considered the most beautiful and majestic of all the Canary Islands. The island’s lush forests, pristine black sand beaches, volcanic landscapes and astonishing architecture will quickly demonstrate why that’s the case.

The Canary Islands are a Spanish archipelago located just off the coast of Morocco and northwest Africa. They are renowned for their natural beauty and rich cultural heritage, attracting visitors from all over the world.

Much of La Palma’s beauty lies in its unique and incredibly varied terrain. You’ll find dense forests in the north, the colossal volcanic crater of Caldera de Taburiente in the island’s interior, and dramatic cliffs with black sand beaches lining its shores.

Dozens of charming villages and bustling towns are found throughout the island as well. They offer the opportunity to learn about traditional Canarian culture, sample traditional cuisine, and explore the picturesque colonial-style architecture of the island.

With this guide to La Palma, you’ll be able to construct an itinerary that takes you to breathtaking sights while also providing an immersive cultural experience in this island paradise.

HISTORY AND BACKGROUND

Natural History 

The Canary Islands were formed over the course of millions of years as a result of the eruption of underwater volcanoes. In time, the lava hardened and accumulated deep in the ocean. It eventually protruded through the water’s surface to create the land formations that we see today.

The creation of La Palma specifically, can be credited to a series of eruptions along the Cumbre Vieja volcanic ridge. The Caldera de Taburiente (the 6 mile wide crater dominating the island’s landscape), was formed during a particularly intense series of eruptions.  

These successive eruptions caused the hardened lava and volcanic debris to accumulate over time. Forces of nature eventually caused these massive structures to collapse, thus forming the massive crater. They have since been sculpted by the winds and waters into gorges, mountains, and valleys.

Inhabitants

La Palma’s first inhabitants were the Guanches, who were thought to have arrived on the island about 1,000 BCE. Centuries later, Christopher Colombus made several stops to the island during his global expeditions, bringing with him Spanish culture, influence, and ultimately colonization. 

The economy of La Palma flourished over the subsequent years as the island developed under Spanish rule. The port of Santa Cruz de La Palma transformed into a commercial power, exporting the island’s sugar and wine all over the world.

La Palma, however, has also experienced setbacks over the years. Intermittent volcanic eruptions have led to periods marked by landscape destruction and devastation of the island’s economy. The 20th century also saw a large wave of emigration from La Palma to continental Europe and Latin America.

Despite these obstacles, the people of La Palma have remained resilient. Today the island is a popular holiday destination with a thriving economy and boasts one of the most beautiful landscapes in the world.

GETTING THERE

Getting to La Palma will involve either traveling by air or sea. 

La Palma Airport (SPC), is located just south of Santa Cruz de La Palma on the eastern coast of the island. It operates as the main gateway into La Palma and services flights from many major cities in Spain and Europe. Car rentals are available at the airport and are the best way to get around the island.

Arriving at La Palma by sea is another option. A network of ferries connect La Palma to many of the other Canary Islands such as Tenerife, Gran Canaria, and La Gomera. There are ferry ports on both sides of La Palma; Santa Cruz de La Palma on the east and Tazacorte on the west. The Fred Olsen Express and Naviera Armas are the two companies servicing the island, and both offer several ferries daily.

WHERE TO STAY

Rest assured, regardless of where you choose to stay on La Palma you’ll be able to visit any location on the island in a given day. We chose to stay in the outskirts of Santa Cruz de La Palma due to its proximity to the airport, central location, and abundance of lodging, restaurant, and shopping options.

Santa Cruz de la Palma

The capital city of Santa Cruz de la Palma offers a variety of accommodation options. The historic port city enchants its visitors with a lively atmosphere, colonial architecture, and an elaborate maze of cobblestone streets.

Stroll down the waterfront promenade of Avenida Marítima, taking note of its intricately designed balconies and colorful buildings. Cozy up at a cafe in Plaza de España before touring the city’s most iconic landmark, the Church of El Salvador.

Tazacorte and Los Llanos de Aridane

On the western side of La Palma you’ll find the coastal town of Tazacorte. There’s more sun and overall slightly better weather on the western half of La Palma. This makes Tazacorte the ideal destination if you prefer an itinerary featuring immaculate black sand beaches and water activities.

From Tazacorte you’ll have convenient access to the charming cafes, shops, and beachfront of Puerto de Tazacorte. You can book guided excursions to see marine life such as whales and dolphins. Additional activities include an underground adventure exploring Cueva de Las Palomas or a boat tour to the seaside village of Porís de Candelaria.

Just a few miles east of Tazacorte and further inland is Los Llanos de Aridane. This town is a great location to stay when exploring Caldera de Taburiente National Park. You’ll have access to dozens of amazing hiking trails right at your footsteps.

La Palma is recognized as a UNESCO Starlight Reserve. The mountains and viewpoints around Los Llanos de Aridane are the perfect locations for stargazing on clear nights. 

Fuencaliente

The southern terrain of La Palma transforms from dense forests and mountainous craters into barren and flat volcanic sand. There’s far fewer towns in this region, although Fuencaliente still has its share of accommodations, restaurants, and tourist attractions. 

Fuencaliente is at the doorstep of Volcán San Antonio. There’s a hiking path around this volcano as well as a visitor center, where you can learn about the island’s geological history. The breathtaking and colorful salt pans of Salinas de Fuencaliente are also nearby, as are several lovely wineries.

San Andrés y Sauces

If you’re a nature enthusiast hoping to sleep amidst the magical forests of La Palma, consider staying in the town of San Andrés y Sauces on the northeast coast. A host of hiking trails await in the lush laurel forests of Bosque de Los Tilos, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. 

From here you’ll also have access to the crystal-clear waters of Charco Azul, a natural swimming pool formed within volcanic rocks.

The Roque de los Muchachos Observatory is only 90 minutes away from San Andrés y Sauces and provides educational tours and exhibits that illustrate the facility’s groundbreaking astronomical discoveries. 

FOUR DAY LA PALMA ITINERARY

This La Palma itinerary organizes activities and attractions based on geography, to minimize travel times. Although La Palma is not a very big island, it does take some time to get from place to place due to the massive caldera in the island’s interior and its undulating terrain. 

This is a fast-paced itinerary that covers a lot of sights and activities throughout La Palma in a short amount of time. Although the itinerary can be done in three days, spacing it out over four or five days would allow more time at each site and might make it a more relaxing experience. 

DAY 1

Roque de los Muchachos Observatory 

Begin your La Palma itinerary by exploring Caldera de Taburiente National Park. The road from Santa Cruz de La Palma to Roque de los Muchachos Observatory is notorious for its innumerable hairpin turns that ascend up the mountainside. It’s commonly cited that there are about 200 switchbacks along this road.

You’ll want to arrive at the Roque de los Muchachos parking lot early as it’s very small. From there you’ll find a short and easy path to Mirador del Espigón del Roque. The viewpoint provides spectacular vistas of the island’s volcanic landscape and into the caldera itself.

The world class observatory lies at nearly 8,000 feet above sea level and is home to dozens of powerful telescopes and other impressive structures used for astronomical research. Scientists from all over the world collaborate at the observatory and share their ideas and findings, offering great insight into mysteries of the universe.

Before leaving the observatory make sure to visit the visitor center. You’ll find an array of interactive exhibits and guided tours revealing the facility’s amazing capabilities and role in exploring the cosmos.

• Interesting Fact: The most famous telescope at Roque de los Muchachos is the Gran Telescopio Canarias (commonly referred to as the Grantecan telescope). The telescope is one of the world’s largest single-aperture optical telescopes, allowing astronomers to explore the far reaches of the universe with amazing clarity.

Los Tilos Scenic Drive and Charco Azul

After lunch you’ll leave the observatory heading northwest down the opposite side of the caldera. You’ll then merge onto highway LP-1 which takes you back east through one of the most scenic and dramatic landscapes on the island.

The road winds through the subtropical forests of Bosque de Los Tilos. This unique ecosystem is characterized by dense vegetation, towering trees, and an abundance of animal and plant species.

Make sure to detour via highway LP-109 as it provides several scenic viewpoints along its route. Soon it rejoins the major highway in the town of Barlovento.

The next stop on the La Palma itinerary is Charco Azul. This crystal-clear natural swimming pool was formed amongst the volcanic rocks and sculpted over millions of years by the powerful Atlantic Ocean waves. 

The turquoise waters of the lagoon are sheltered from the rough sea and provide a refreshing atmosphere for swimming and relaxation. You’ll find basic facilities at Charco Azul, including restrooms, changing rooms, and a snack bar. If you have time, consider a short walk through town to the black sand beach of Playa de Puerto Espíndola.

DAY 2

Ruta de los Volcanes

No itinerary for La Palma is complete without hiking the most iconic trail in all the Canary Islands, Ruta de los Volcanes. This is a stunning but challenging hike that takes you along the Cumbre Vieja ridgeline. 

The trail is well-maintained and marked, and you’ll likely be joined by several other hikers. The trail begins with an ascent through a pine forest. It then crosses a series of volcanic summits before descending in the southern direction to Fuencaliente. 

It’s a 12 mile point to point hike with about 2,300 feet of elevation gain that requires about 6-8 hours to complete. Along the way you’ll be treated to spectacular panoramas and views of the volcanic landscapes, gaining some insight into the island’s geological history.

Pine Forest

Catch a taxi to Rifugio El Pilar where you’ll begin the hike. The trail gently ascends through the pine forest and brings you along the western slopes of the volcanic ridgeline. You’ll be walking across a mixture of volcanic dust and dead pine needles. 

Eventually you’ll ascend above the treeline. Gradually the landscape gets more barren as the elevation increases and you near the ridge. Over your right shoulder, take note of the Caldera de Taburiente, Aridane Valley, and La Palma’s beautiful west coast.

Volcano Summits and Ridgeline

The path proceeds up a gentle ascent to Mirador del Hoyo Negro, literally translated to “Black Hole Viewpoint”. Carefully look over the cliff’s edge to the deep ravine and the Atlantic Ocean off in the distance.

As the trail continues across the lava fields you’ll soon reach Mirador de Duraznero. The volcanic landscape slopes down to the ocean on both sides of Volcan El Duraznero. If skies are clear you’ll see the islands of La Gomera, El Hierro and Tenerife, highlighted by Mount Teide.

Continue down the undulating trail to the viewpoint at Mount Deseada. Eat lunch here while you take in the panoramas featuring deep gorges, desolate volcanic landscapes, and the rugged coastlines.

Descent to Los Canarios

After walking across the series of volcano summits the trail descends, eventually bringing you below the tree line and back into the pine forest. The trail officially terminates at Los Canarios, although there is the option to continue on to the coast at Salinas de Fuencaliente. 

You’ll find a few restaurant options in Los Canarios and can often arrange a taxi to bring you back to your accommodations or the trailhead at El Pilar, although I’d recommend confirming this beforehand.

Volcán de San Antonio

Now that you’re back in civilization, walk through Los Canarios and visit the Volcán de San Antonio Visitor’s Center. Discover the geological origins of La Palma while gaining insight into the challenges and benefits provided by living amongst active volcanoes. 

Behind the visitor’s center are two trails, one leading to a small observatory and the other that follows the volcano’s rim to a viewpoint with spectacular views of the island’s southern and western shores.

• Interesting Fact: La Palma’s unique volcanic soils and microclimate provides the optimal environment for the Malvasia grape to thrive. The Spanish conquistadors made use of this knowledge and established the island’s first Malvasia vineyards.You can find these vineyards throughout the island, where you’ll discover how the wines are made and be able to indulge in a glass yourself.

Salinas de Fuencaliente

If time permits and you have transportation arranged from Los Canarios, drive down the steep switchbacks to the vibrant and mesmerizing salt pans of Salinas de Fuencaliente. This is a family run business that has been in existence for generations. 

You’ll be able to walk amongst these colorful pools and learn about the salt extraction process, reading the informational postings located throughout the area. The seawater is collected in a series of pools and then allowed to evaporate, leaving behind Teneguía sea salt.

DAY 3

Los Tilos Hiking

On the first day of this itinerary you had driven through some of the scenic stretches of Bosque de Los Tilos along La Palma’s north shore. Today, you’ll have the opportunity to hike some of the amazing trails through this subtropical forest.

The dense laurel forest’s biodiversity and incredible beauty make it a popular hiking destination. The region features cascading waterfalls, lush vegetation, and fascinating wildlife. 

Drive to La Galga as you’ll be hiking the Cubo de la Galga Trail. This is a 3.5 mile loop trail with about 1,000 feet of elevation gain. There are a few different ways to hike the trail. We found a roadside parking spot on Calle Fuente Pino near the trailhead, high up the mountainside. This shortened the hike and avoided the steep ascent through the town of La Galga.

The trail is well maintained and meanders through the thick vegetation of Bosque de Los Tilos. After only a few minutes you’ll arrive at the highest point of the hike, Mirador Somada Alta. From here there are views over the towering forest trees all the way to the Atlantic Ocean.

The tranquil hike continues through a maze of green mosses, giant ferns, and vibrant flowers. You’ll be serenaded to the sounds of waterfalls, rustling trees, and melodic birds. The trail leads down to a stream and ravine before ultimately returning to the trailhead. 

San Andrés y Sauces and Playa de Nogales

Next you’ll head to the nearby mountain town of San Andrés y Sauces for an afternoon coffee and dessert from one of the numerous cafes found in the main plaza. Surrounding the town you’ll notice the hillsides covered in terraces of avocado and banana plantations. 

Just a few more minutes along the highway and toward the shoreline is Playa de Nogales, possibly the island’s most beautiful beach. Stop at the viewpoint from the cliffside above the beach to fully appreciate the magnificence and allure of the beach.

A narrow and steep path leads from the viewpoint down to the beach. The volcanic sands create the perfect contrast against the backdrop of lush green vegetation and the azure sea. When the water is calm, Playa de Nogales offers phenomenal snorkeling, swimming, and sunbathing.

Los Cancajos 

In the afternoon, drive back east to the lively coastal town of Los Cancajos. The town is home to several resorts and a black sand beach. You’ll find an abundance of beach bars and restaurants catering to all types of tastes. 

The town is very popular due to its variety of food and drink options, exquisite beach, and proximity to Santa Cruz de La Palma. The bustling town and beautiful location offer the perfect spot to grab an afternoon refreshment and enjoy the calm and refreshing waters.

DAY 4

The final day of your La Palma itinerary takes you to the sunny western side of the island for a day of relaxation on one of the island’s most popular beaches. Afterward you’ll return back to the east coast to explore the island’s capital of Santa Cruz de La Palma. 

Puerto de Tazacorte 

On the far western coastline of La Palma rests one of the island’s most serene and beautiful coastal towns, Puerto de Tazacorte. The town is situated at the base of La Palma’s rugged mountains and at the mouth of the Barranco de las Angustias.

Palm trees and a vibrant waterfront promenade run along the town’s pristine black sand beaches. A breakwater ensures the beach remains relatively calm, thus making it the ideal family-friendly beach. Go ahead and rent some beach chairs and umbrellas from the vendors and plan on making a home here for a few hours.

The Puerto de Tazacorte plaza contains brilliantly colored cafes, restaurants, and souvenir shops, providing everything you’d need for a day on the beach. If you have additional time to explore nearby attractions, consider a fishing excursion or boat tour exploring the coastline.

Another option would be driving and then hiking the steep descent to the coastal town of Porís de Candelaria. This is a fascinating village built into the cliffside and nestled within a cave. It boasts stunning whitewashed buildings set amongst the crashing waves of the ocean.

Santa Cruz de La Palma

Once you’ve had your fill of sun bathing and water activities, finish up the day at Santa Cruz de La Palma. The island’s capital city and economic hub offers a wide variety of attractions, restaurants, and must see sights.

Throughout the city you’ll notice elaborately designed wooden balconies, narrow cobblestone streets, and traditional Canarian architecture. Stroll along the city’s iconic waterfront promenade, Avenida Marítima, and enjoy the bustling activities of the city’s harbor.

Make sure to visit the historic square and heart of the city at Plaza de España, characterized by its Renaissance-style buildings, cafes, and intriguing shops. This is a great place to sit down for coffee, watch the locals, and get a feel for authentic Canarian culture.

Nearby is the Church of El Salvador, highlighted by its blend of Mudejar, Gothic, and Renaissance architecture. The remarkable craftsmanship and intricate design of the church’s wooden ceiling draw tourists by the thousands to see this historic attraction.

FINAL IMPRESSIONS

La Palma may not have the notoriety of some of the other Canary Islands, such as Tenerife or Lanzarote, but its rugged beauty, rich history, and inviting culture make it a fantastic holiday getaway.

This four day La Palma itinerary takes you through the northern laurel forests, into the island’s ancient volcanic craters, and along pristine coastlines with black sand beaches. You’ll also be able to visit the iconic observatory for stargazing and hike the legendary Ruta de Los Volcanes Trail.

From the charming seaside villages to the bustling capital city of Santa Cruz de La Palma, you’ll find an immersive cultural experience around every corner. Regardless of what you decide to do on your trip to La Palma, prepare to be blown away by the island’s stunning beauty, diverse ecosystems, and welcoming atmosphere.