OVERVIEW

The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is one of the world’s most iconic long-distance treks, circling the Mont Blanc massif through France, Italy, and Switzerland. Covering roughly 110 miles, the trek is traditionally divided into 11 distinct stages, each offering unique landscapes, charming alpine villages, and unforgettable mountain views. 

Understanding these stages helps with planning your journey, managing daily distances, and choosing where to stay for the night. This article breaks down each stage in detail, highlighting key features like distance, elevation changes, accommodation options, and some of the highlights that can’t be missed.

From gentle valleys to challenging ascents, the TMB provides a perfect blend of physical challenge and natural beauty. Read on to discover what to expect on every day of the journey, so you can prepare for an incredible trek through one of Europe’s most breathtaking mountain ranges.

BREAKDOWN OF THE 11 TMB STAGES

Day 1 – Chamonix to Les Houches

• Distance: 7.5 miles (12 km)
• Elevation Gain: 1890 feet (570 meters)
• Duration: 5-6 hours
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Lodging: Chalet Hôtel du Bois

Although the TMB officially starts in Les Houches, most hikers begin in Chamonix, which is what we did. From the town center, we took the Planpraz gondola up to La Bergerie, a mountain restaurant at around 6,500 feet, saving some early uphill effort. 

At the restaurant viewpoint we enjoyed panoramic views across the Chamonix Valley of Mont Blanc and the surrounding peaks. From here, we could have taken another cable car to reach Le Brévent Peak, but we opted to start hiking instead.

The trail led us uphill toward the Col du Brévent, where we encountered a few friendly mountain goats. From there, we circled around the mountain’s northern side and eventually arrived at the stunning viewpoint atop Le Brévent. 

From here, the path began its gradual descent through the Aiguilles Rouges and Carlaveyron Nature Reserves toward Les Houches. The path carved through alpine meadows filled with wildflowers while we admired the picturesque Lac du Brévent off to our right. 

We passed pastures filled with grazing cows and a few charming alpine chalets, including Refuge de Bellachat. After dropping below the tree line, we arrived at Parc de Merlet, an alpine animal park that is home to ibex, chamois, marmots, deer, mouflon, and even llamas, all roaming freely across its 20 hectares.

The trail then became monotonous as it zigzagged through a series of forested switchbacks. This section was hard on our knees, and we started to second-guess our choice to forgo hiking poles. Eventually, we crossed the Arve River and arrived at our accommodation in Les Houches for the night.

Day 2 – Les Houches to Les Contamines

• Distance: 11 miles (17.7 km)
• Elevation Gain: 3,960 feet (1,200 meters)
• Duration: 7-8 hours
• Difficulty: Moderate-Strenuous
• Optional Variant: Col de Tricot
• Lodging: Hôtel Le Christiania

Many hikers who plan to hike the Col de Tricot variant begin this stage by taking the Prarion cable car from Les Houches to Prarion Plateau. This saves a lot of time and energy by eliminating an early morning 2,730 foot ascent. That’s exactly what we did, and in hindsight, we were very glad we made that choice.

From the cable car station, the trail led through wide alpine meadows, crossed the Col de Voza and Tramway du Mont Blanc, and passed through a forest of spruce and birch. After about 90 minutes we reached a suspension bridge over the Bionnassay Glacier stream—a narrow crossing that felt a bit precarious but added a thrill to the day.

We had reached the most grueling stretch of the day—a long, steady climb up a series of exposed, zigzagging switchbacks. The climb eventually brought us to Col de Tricot, a high mountain pass with incredible views across Miage Valley and back toward the Bionnassay Glacier. 

From the saddle, we proceeded down the south facing mountainside and until reaching Refuge de Miage, where we enjoyed lunch. After a hearty meal, the trail climbed 600 feet up to the Truc Plateau where it transformed into a gravel road that passed by Auberge du Truc, another quaint restaurant.

The final stretch descended through forested trails and past farmland, eventually reaching the beautiful village of Les Contamines. It was a challenging stage, but one of the most scenic and rewarding of the trek.

Day 3 – Les Contamines to Les Chapieux

• Distance: 11.2 miles (18 km)
• Elevation Gain: 4,470 feet (1,360 meters)
• Duration: 7-8 hours
• Difficulty: Strenuous
• Optional Variant: Col des Fours
• Lodging: Auberge Refuge Nova

The hike from Les Contamines to Les Chapieux was one of the most dramatic and demanding sections of the TMB, featuring alpine scenery, a high mountain pass, and a real sense of wilderness. 

We left Les Contamines early, following a peaceful riverside path through forest and pastureland. The trail gradually climbed past the historic Notre-Dame de la Gorge, a small stone chapel nestled beneath steep cliffs, then steepened sharply as it ascended along a rocky, old Roman road.

After passing alpine pastures and grassy plateaus, the path leveled briefly at Le Refuge des Prés. We could also see Refuge de la Balme to our left down in the valley below. This was a good spot for a quick break before the toughest part of the day. 

From here, it was a long and relentless climb through the rocky meadows to Col du Bonhomme. At the mountain pass we paused to take in the breathtaking views—Montjoie Valley stretching out behind us and the Vallée des Chapieux unfolding ahead—before pressing on toward Col de la Croix du Bonhomme. 

At the col was Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme, a great spot to recover and grab a bite to eat while enjoying spectacular panoramas of the Vallée des Chapieux below. This location also marks the start of the Col des Fours variant, a high alpine trail that bypasses Les Chapieux and rejoins the classic route near Refuge des Mottets. We opted to continue on the classic route.

From the refuge, we faced an endless, rocky descent into the isolated Vallée des Chapieux, a quiet hamlet nestled below the towering peaks. Without hiking poles, this stage took a serious toll on our knees. Though Les Chapieux offers limited lodging and just one small shop, we were fortunate to find hiking poles there to carry us through the rest of our journey.

Day 4 – Les Chapieux to Refuge Elisabetta

• Distance: 8.6 miles (13.8 km)
• Elevation Gain: 3,440 feet (1,050 meters)
• Duration: 5-6 hours
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Lodging: Refuge Elisabetta

We said goodbye to Les Chapieux and gradually ascended through the Valleé du Glaciers, accompanied by the sound of cowbells and the scent of wildflowers.

The path followed a paved road for a while, then turned into a dirt trail while climbing toward Refuge des Mottets, a former dairy farm now serving as a popular rest stop and lodge. 

From the refuge, the trail ascended through increasingly rugged terrain, heading toward the French–Italian border at Col de la Seigne.

It was a long but manageable hike, with the views growing more impressive the higher we climbed.

Reaching the col felt like stepping into another world, where incredible views of the jagged Italian Alps unfolded in every direction.

We snapped the obligatory photo beside the large stone marking the French-Italian border before descending through a wide, open meadow toward Refuge Elisabetta. 

The hotel-restaurant is perched dramatically beneath Glacier de la Lex Blanche and the sharp spire of Aiguille de Tré-la-Tête. The views here were spectacular, and the atmosphere felt remote and wild.

It’s a beautiful and varied stage that marked our arrival into the Italian Alps.

Day 5 – Refugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur

• Distance: 9.6 miles (15.4 km)
• Elevation Gain: 1,770 feet (540 meters)
• Duration: 5-6 hours
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Lodging: Hotel Croux

Pressed for time, we combined stages 4 and 5 into a single, challenging—but unforgettable—day on the trail. We covered nearly 20 miles, making it our longest day. But if your schedule allows, we recommend splitting it into two days for a more manageable and enjoyable experience.

From Refuge Elisabetta, the trail began gently, winding through the meadows of Val Veny with incredible views of eroded rock and glacial ice in every direction. The route climbed toward the Arp Vieille ridge where we hiked for the next few hours. 

After reaching that elevation we were treated to sweeping views of the south face of the Mont Blanc massif and one of the most dramatic peaks in the Italian Alps, Aiguille Noire de Peuterey.

We passed by Refuge Maison Vieille, where some hikers chose to spend the night, but we pressed on through the ski resort at Col Chécrouit, which featured even more chalets and restaurants. 

The trail dropped steeply in endless switchbacks through the forest, pounding our knees relentlessly. The Dolonne Gondola Mountain Station (which connects Col Chécrouit to Courmayeur) would have saved our legs, but we were hiking late in the season and it was already shut for the year.

We finally reached the town of Dolonne on the valley floor. A short bridge across the Dora Baltea River brought us to Courmayeur and by now our knees were absolutely toast. But the town was a welcome sight, full of great food, comfortable lodging, and lively streets. 

Despite the punishing descent, the views and change in scenery made it one of the most unforgettable days of the trek.

Day 6 – Courmayeur to Refuge Bonatti

• Distance: 7.5 miles (12.1 km)
• Elevation Gain: 2,790 feet (850 meters)
• Duration: 4-5 hours
• Difficulty: Easy
• Optional Variant: Col Sapin
• Lodging: Refuge Bonatti

The trail led us through the streets of Courmayeur before quickly transitioning into a brutal uphill climb through the forest. After about an hour of switchbacks, we emerged onto open slopes with jaw-dropping views of the Mont Blanc massif. 

We had a coffee at Refuge Bertone while admiring the Val Ferret that was stretched out below us. Across the valley, glaciers and jagged peaks dominated the landscape.

At Refuge Bertone we had the option to take the variant to Col Sapin to Mont de la Saxe where it follows a ridgeline until rejoining the classic route at Refuge Bonatti. We opted for the classic trail instead.

The trail stayed high along a panoramic balcony route, offering constant views and a steady, more gentle pace after the initial climb. We passed through meadows and across small streams, while stopping every few minutes just to soak it all in.

This section of the TMB quickly became one of our favorites. With relatively little effort, we were treated to nonstop dramatic views of the Alps, sweeping valleys, and stunning scenery around every turn.

Eventually, we rounded a bend and spotted Refuge Bonatti, perched perfectly above the valley. Named after legendary Italian alpinist Walter Bonatti, the refuge is one of the most scenic and comfortable of the entire trek.

Day 7 – Refuge Bonatti to La Fouly

• Distance: 12.7 miles (20.4 km)
• Elevation Gain: 3,240 feet (990 meters)
• Duration: 7-8 hours
• Difficulty: Moderate-Challenging
• Lodging: Hotel Edelweiss

We left Refuge Bonatti under a steady rain, but the gentle balcony trail helped ease us into the day. But we did manage to stay dry under our rain gear and could still enjoy many of the amazing views—glaciers spilling down cliffs, jagged peaks towering across the valley, and quiet alpine meadows all around. 

Soon the trail descended to the valley floor of Val Ferret where we found the Chalet Val Ferret. Some of our companions stopped for a snack, but we pushed onward through farmland and dozens of cows toward Refuge Elena.

We eventually arrived at the most challenging part of the day, the climb to the Grand Col Ferret, the highest point on the TMB at 8,324 feet (2,537 meters). The ascent was steady and not overly technical, but it was long and exposed, so weather was somewhat a factor.

At the col, we crossed into Switzerland, with a noticeable shift in landscape—more pastoral, softer, greener. The descent from the col was long but beautiful, winding past alpine farms and more grazing cows. 

About an hour past Grand Col Ferret we came across Alpage de la Peule, where we stopped for a well deserved lunch. Eventually, the trail leveled out into the Val Ferret, and the path followed a gentle river valley all the way to the quiet village of La Fouly.

La Fouly is small but peaceful, with just a few shops, hotels, and a campsite. After a big day conquering a major mountain pass, it felt great to rest and take in the calm, Swiss atmosphere.

Day 8 – La Fouly to Champex-Lac

• Distance: 9.2 miles (14.8 km)
• Elevation Gain: 2,080 feet (630 meters)
• Duration: 4-5 hours
• Difficulty: Easy
• Lodging: Hôtel du Glacier

This stage is often seen as a “recovery day” on the TMB—lower in elevation, less intense climbing, and a gentler pace overall. Leaving La Fouly, the trail followed a quiet riverside path through the Val Ferret, passing through charming hamlets like Praz-de-Fort and Issert. 

The scenery shifted from high alpine drama to pastoral beauty: wooden chalets with flower boxes, bell-wearing cows, and green meadows backed by distant peaks.

The first half was mostly flat, making for a relaxed morning stroll. After a few hours we began the steep climb through forest switchbacks up to Champex-Lac. It’s not the steepest ascent of the trek, but it felt surprisingly tough after the easy start and exhausting day we had just completed.

We eventually emerged at the lakeside village of Champex-Lac, a postcard-perfect Swiss resort town with a peaceful alpine lake at its center. The town has several cafés, outfitters, and hotels, making it a great place to refuel and settle in for the night.

Day 9 – Champex-Lac to Trient

• Distance: 9.2 miles (14.8 km)
• Elevation Gain: 3,930 feet (1,200 meters)
• Duration: 7-8 hours
• Difficulty: Strenuous
• Optional Variant: Fenêtre d’Arpette
• Lodging: The Auberge du Mont Blanc

The hike from Champex-Lac to Trient starts out peacefully but packs a real punch by the end. Leaving the lakeside village, the trail passed through farmland and then dense forest before splitting at Plan de l’Au. 

Here, you face a choice: the classic Alpe Bovine route or the more rugged variant, the Fenêtre d’Arpette route. Most hikers opt for the Alpe Bovine—less dramatic but still beautiful, and easier on the legs. Despite the light rain and overcast skies, we chose the Fenêtre d’Arpette, holding out hope for even a brief clearing in the clouds.

Shortly after the trail split, we emerged through the forest into the rugged alpine Val d’Arpette, surrounded by dramatic rock walls and glacial remnants. The trail stretched endlessly up the valley, growing steeper with every step we took.

The final portion of the ascent was by far the most grueling. The trail steepened dramatically, becoming less of a hike and more of a boulder scramble. We found ourselves using hands as well as feet to navigate the loose rock, carefully choosing each step. 

We eventually reached the narrow and exposed saddle where we took a seat next to some fellow hikers. Though the views were completely obscured by clouds, the stark, high-alpine landscape—raw and dramatic—made the effort worthwhile.

As we descended on the other side of the mountain pass, the clouds finally cleared. The Glacier du Trient came into view, a massive river of ice spilling down the mountain. Below it, the lush green Vallée du Trient spread out, framed by towering mountains that finally revealed themselves. 

The route continued along the Triente River, soon reaching Chalet du Glacier, where we grabbed a bite to eat. It only took another hour of forest hiking along the Bisse du Trient path (rather than the Le Peuty route) before reaching Triente, where we settled in for the night.

Day 10 – Trient to Argentière

• Distance: 9.5 miles (15.3 km)
• Elevation Gain: 3,930 feet (1,200 meters)
• Duration: 7-8 hours
• Difficulty: Moderate-Strenuous
• Lodging: Les Grands Montets Hotel & Spa

The day started with a steep climb right out of the gate—no warm-up, just straight into switchbacks through the forest. We crossed the Nant Stream and entered the forest, gaining elevation quickly while heading toward the Col de Balme, a scenic pass marking our return to France. 

After reaching the Col de Balme, we were rewarded with stunning views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. Just beyond the pass sat the rustic Refuge du Col de Balme—the perfect spot to pause and enjoy a cup of coffee and lunch.

From there, we began our descent into the Chamonix Valley, continuing deeper into France as we made our way toward the Col des Posettes. Less than an hour later, we reached the Aiguillette des Posettes, the highest point of the day.

The trail followed a scenic ridgeline, draped in colorful vegetation, even as the sun slipped away behind the clouds. Eventually it dropped steeply back into the forest and descended into the Vallée de l’Arve.

Several towns offered overnight options, but we chose Argentière for its variety of lodging and restaurants—an ideal place to relax after a demanding day on the trail.

Day 11 – Argentière to Chamonix

• Distance: 8.9 miles (14.3 km)
• Elevation Gain: 4,432 feet (1,350 meters)
• Duration: 7-8 hours
• Difficulty: Moderate-Strenuous
• Lodging: Pointe Isabelle

We were excited to begin our last day on TMB, knowing that the trail featured some adventurous ladder climbs and one of the most iconic parts of the trek—the hike to Lac Blanc. 

The trail from Argentière took us out of the Vallée de l’Arve and straight into a long, forested climb. We pushed through a relentless stretch of switchbacks, pausing for a few short breaks—it was a tough and demanding way to kick off our final day on the trail.

Now the real fun began as we arrived at the ladder section. Climbing the series of metal ladders, platforms, and stairs was exhilarating and immediately became one of our favorite experiences of the trek. While those with a fear of heights might find it a little nerve-wracking, we felt it was quite safe and considered it a true highlight of the TMB.

The ladders led us up to Tête aux Vents, where we lingered for a while, soaking in the views of alpine meadows, Vallée de l’Arve, and the enormous Mont Blanc massif. From there, the main trail continues on a relatively flat path toward La Flégère, but we opted for the higher route that passes by Lac des Chéserys and Lac Blanc.

After nearly another hour of hiking, we arrived at Refuge du Lac Blanc, nestled beside the stunning Lac Blanc. We wandered along the shoreline, finding various vantage points to capture the lake’s beauty. The scenery here was absolutely breathtaking—easily one of the most picturesque spots of the entire trek.

At this point we were left with another decision. We could have hiked to Flégère Gondola and taken the cable car back down to Chamonix. Instead, we continued the hike across the high alpine mountains toward Plan Praz, where we had taken the gondola up from Chamonix 11 days prior.

The trail hugged the mountainside, providing spectacular views of Mont Blanc and Aiguille du Midi, in addition to the Chamonix Valley far below. 

After reaching the gondola at Plan Praz we had mixed emotions, both excitement for our accomplishment and disappointment that the trek was over. We grabbed some beverages from the Bergerie de Planpraz while trying to absorb the final views of the trek. We finally got on the gondola that returned us back to Chamonix, where our adventure began.

FINAL IMPRESSIONS

After eleven unforgettable days spent circling the Mont Blanc massif, we were left with tired legs, full hearts, and a deep appreciation for the beauty and variety of the Alps. Each stage brought its own challenges and rewards—from thrilling ladder climbs and sweeping ridgelines to peaceful valleys and quaint alpine villages. 

We crossed three countries, experienced dramatic changes in scenery, and shared stories with hikers from around the world. The Tour du Mont Blanc tested us physically, but it also reconnected us with the raw power of nature and the simple joy of walking. It’s a journey we’ll never forget.